Sure could use some more information like the year, make, model and if this a front or rear wheel cylinder for drum brakes or a caliper for disc brakes.
The cups face each other.
chek the brake fluid level at the master cylinder, if it is empty, then you have a probable leak and \or air in lines. If it is still full, then it's probably the seals on the piston inside the master brake cylinder.
witch way do you put seals on brake master for a ford bantam The cup(s) usually face into the bore.
ill fit my rod into your cylinder
The way they lived back then.
If you only added engine oil to the master brake cylinder reservoir, remove the master cylinder and replace it with a new one. Engine oil in the brake system will destroy all rubber parts and seals, so if the engine oil worked its way to the calipers and wheel cylinders those would have to be replaced also.
The simplest way to fit rear brake shoes to your 1996 vehicle is to purchase the appropriate brake shoes. The appropriate brake shoes will automatically fit perfectly.
The brake seal in that wheel cylinder is shot. You must either dismantle cylinder and fit new seal or replace entire cylinder (probably the easiest way) then bleed entire system. There is also a flexible and a solid hydraulic line that could be damaged or perished.
Start by taking the old master cylinder off first. First remove the brake lines from it and any wires/plugs that may be hooked into sensors. Then remove the 2 bolts that hold the master cylinder to your brake booster. If you bought just the master cylinder without the reservoir you are gonna have the reservoir off the old master cylinder. Be careful not to snap the plastic though. I found the easiest way to remove it with the tools I had, was to rip the top off the rubber seal off. Then I could fit a pair of needle nose pliers between the reservoir and the master cylinder. I positioned it different ways to "wedge" the reservoir out of the master cylinder. Do the same thing for both holes, unless you have a better way of doing it. After you have removed it, reinstall the reservoir on the new master cylinder. Then re-secure the master cylinder with the 2 bolts onto the brake booster. Reconnect the brake lines and sensors the same way they were before. You have to bleed the master cylinder using the bleeder on the engine side of the master cylinder. Then bleed the master cylinder out to the brake lines to make sure brake fluid was flowing properly. Then you can go thru your brakes and bleed them properly, starting from the furthest location.
Master cylinder is bad and appears to be coming from the booster.
The brake master cylinder has nothing to do with the way the car runs. It certainly wouldn't cause it to stall.....Maybe the brake booster?
Disconnect brake line at the nearest junction Disconnect brake line at the affected wheel cylinder Route new brake line same way old one was Connect both ends Bleed the wheel cylinder on that line MAKE SURE MASTER CYLINDER DOES NOT RUN EMPTY