You May Have Typed In The Wrong Time. But If A Battery Lasts Over A Year I Would See No Problem. But I`m Sure That Is Not The Case. Even So;This May Help You. It Sounds As If You Have A Small Ground Or Something That Is Staying On, When You Leave The Car. Follow This Test. First You Will Need A Voltage Tester Or A Test Light ( I Prefer The Test Light ) You Can Get One At A Parts House For Less Than $ 10. Open Your Hood +++++ Remove The Hood Light Bulb. Next Remove The Ground Cable From The Battery. Connect The Test Light Between The Cable End & The Ground Terminal You Just Removed The Cable From. I Find It Best To Get A Friend To Help. If The Tester Light Comes On, You Have A Voltage Leak. You Will Just Have To Search It Out. When You Find & Repair, Or Turn Off The Problem The Light Will Go Out On The Tester & All Should Be OK. GOOD LUCK
If the battery checks out okay, you can replace just the voltage regulator inside the alternator.
Battery light usually means alternator not charging. Most common solutions would be be a bad alternator, bad connection, or loose alt belt.
u might need a new starter
Because the ac uses juice from the battery, if it uses all the energy, the car wont start Just as in winter, when you have the heating on, the AC uses the heating fan to circulate the cold air. It is the fan that takes the current from the battery and if the battery is not holding it's charge or the alternator is not charging the battery then the battery will die and the car cut out. It this situation it is best if 2 checks made, if necessary, by an Auto-Electrician. They are:- 1) The battery to see if it is holding it's charge and 2) The alternator to see if it is charging. Replace the faulty components. If the car cut's out when the battery dies this suggests the alternator may well be at fault. However the checks will confirm this one way or the other. A red light may show on the dash if the alternator is not charging.
The battery light isn't an indicator that the battery is always bad. What the light should really be is a picture of an alternator, but most people wouldn't recognize that. Have the alternator checked off the vehicle to make sure it is good, then have it checked on the vehicle, (many places like Auto Zone do this for free). If it's not charging on the vehicle, you could have an alternator fuse bad or your car might even have an inline fuse between the alternator and battery. Many Ford products have a large fusible link between the alternator and battery, and if it's bad, there is no power going to the battery from the alternator. Good Luck!!!!
Make sure the battery is checked out under a load. This will indicate whether the battery is capable of holding a charge.Second, suspect the alternator is not charging the battery.Third, suspect a short or a switch somewhere that is draining the battery.
It checks many things, connections, belt, and voltage regulator. I have never checked one with a load test. On a modern car or truck, never ever disconnect the battery from the alternator with the motor running to check the alternator. It can burnup a lot of electronics instantly.
For a battery to "Drain" you MUST have a short somewhere or the "Glovebox" or "Trunk" light is staying on etc. etc. Battery's don't just "Drain" on there own ;-) TommyTrouble
I had this problem on a 1979 Mercury Grand Marquis- it turned out to be a short in the wire going from the alternator to the battery. It was intermittent, so it was very hard to run down. If the alternator checks good, the short/broken wire could easily be the culprit.Rocky_B - See my entry here for more things you might want to check: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_could_be_wrong_if_the_battery_light_stays_on_and_the_battery_still_runs_down_on_a_1996_windstar_after_installing_a_new_battery_and_alternator
If you *know* the alternator is good, like you just replaced it, or removed it and had it tested down at the autoparts store, then it could be any number of problems. Check all cables and connections between the battery and alternator. This includes cleaning the connection terminals on the battery (they make a special wire brush for this purpose). If that is all done and the problem still exists, then it is probably a bad battery. Check the fluid levels in the battery, if they are fine then take it down to the autoparts store and have it tested as well.
There are a number of reasons: 1. Your battery could be going bad. 2. Battery connections could be corroded or bad. 3. Alternator could be going bad. 4. V-belt driving the alternator could be bad or loose. 5. Other loose wiring. There are a few auto supply stores and auto shops that will test your charging system for free and load test the battery. The easy checks are the connections and belt tension.
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Make certain the cables from the battery to the starter and the body are good...may be a starter check out your local library for a shop manual and the checks to make.. d
Check the belt tension. It should deflect no more than 1/4" dead center of the belt. Start the engine and check the output of the alternator at the battery posts. It should be putting out 13.5-16 volts. Any less or more and it is bad. It that all checks out then the battery needs to be load tested at any auto parts store.
because you have just plugged it in it checks if it is a charger
Sounds like something might be hooked up wrong. Check alternator wires and battery cables for good/correct connections. Check for any shorting wires (maybe something got pinched when you put the alt. in) around alt. If all checks out, maybe you got a bad alternator.
The quickest way to test the battery is to have it drop tested this involves using a tool to apply a load to the battery which checks it's ability to hold a charge. If the battery checks OK then the charging rate of the vehicle should be checked Both of these tests can be carried out by any good garage
In many cases, battery charging gauge fluctuations are a symptom of the charging system not keeping up with the additional electrical demand of a blinking light or wipers or other intermittent electrical drains. I would first have the battery checked to see if it is holding charge. If the battery checks out OK, the likellihood is your alternator is failing. More than probably it is your alternator. Ya probably one of the six diodes in the bridge are open, Or the brushes to slip-ring connections are jumping (dress slip-rings and replace brushes. GETERDONE!
Unfortunately it could be one of many problems. Check your spark plugs and make sure they are not foul or worn to a disasterous point (do this first as it it least costly). Your timing belt could need adjusting. It could even be your battery or alternator (free battery and alternator checks at most auto parts stores - some will do it without you having to remove them - some won't). There are more possibilities but this is a good start!
more information needed (e.g. does the battery hold a charge when not connected ?) if it doesn't it has a dead cell or is low on electrolytes does the battery throw a spark when you connect the negative wire without anything on? does it hold a charge for a short time or long time i.e. can you not start the car after an hour or does it take four hours to become un-startable? the longer would indicate a device or relay not turning off thereby draining power the shorter would indicate a bad alternator or charging wiring if the charging system checks out i would pull out the relays one at a time (key off for this test) with a voltmeter connected to the battery when you re-insert the relay watch for a voltage drop this could indicate a stuck relay
a hydrometer checks the state of battery charge using specific gravity.
There are many suppliers of personalized business bank checks. Some examples of these suppliers include Costco Checks, Wells Fargo Bank, and Order My Checks.
Have them check the PCM on the car. I JUST had this problem with my 99 Cavalier and the mechanic had to pull everything out of my dash before he found that my PCM was fried somehow. Just so you have symptoms to compare to, my dome light and dash indicators would all light up and work fine, but when you would try to start the car it would not even click. It acted like my battery was dead. I had to jump start my car every time I got in.
If the alternator tests good then it might not be a charge problem. Does it do it after you run it awhile? If so you might consider changing the starter. My 92 had a high priced starter on it and anytime you drove more than about 5 miles the battery acted like it was dead. It ended up the starter was getting hot and not turning over right.