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If you are asking about the spark plug not igniting the fuel it could be any number of faults. If the engine turns rapidly with the starter then this narrows it down to the ignition circuit. One I experienced recently with electronic ignition with an alarm installed, was the battery on the alarm remote was flat and would not communicate with the alarm to de-immobilise the engine. If your have a distributor it could be the points of condensor are faulty. Without more information on the "symptoms" its hard to say.
AnswerThe engine needs fuel, air, compression, and spark to run. First try spraying starting fluid into the intake while someone cranks the car. If it starts the concern is fuel related. If the engine only cranks the fuel system can be ruled out. Secondly, remove a spark plug and check for spark. If there is no spark work your way one step at a time back to the coil and determine if it is an open wire, bad cap/rotor (if equipped), or a bad input to the coil itself. Most coils have a constant battery power supply and ground circuit that is broken by the ECM or ignition control module to fire a spark. If the spark is bright blue at the spark plug the ignition system can be ruled out. If the fuel and spark supplies are ok the next step is a compression test on all cylinders. The general rule is the compression on the lowest cylinder should be at least 75% of the highest cylinder, but you'll also want to look up with the spec is because I've seen compression be even across the board but still 1/3 of the specified amount.For the record, unless the car is older than 1975 ish it doesn't have points and a condenser. If this were related to the immobilizer system (if equipped) the vehicle would start and stall, not just crank.
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