There are three major causes of hot screws on a receptacle.
1.. Overcurrent: Receptacles are usually rated at 15 amps, occasionally 20
amps. If the circuit breaker feeding it is too large or faulty, the receptacle
could overheat due to the loads it is feeding.
2.. Loose screws at the receptacle. This condition leads to arcing at
the receptacle and evetually, fire.
3.. Copper contamination. Carbonization or crystalization can occur on the
conductors at the screw terminal. This can usually be cleaned up with
emery cloth.
What would probably cause a forest habitat to become a desert?
Most commonly, a loss of circuit continuity by: A) Disconnected phase wire. B) Disconnected neutral wire. These wires can become disconnected or loose when jarring faulty receptacles, wire nut connections, etc. The way we usually troubleshoot these issues is to attempt to check each receptacle in sequence. The circuit is broken when we get to the first receptacle that does not work. The problem usually lies in the actual receptacle not working, or the working one immediately previous to the faulty one.
Yes.
Most probably the receptacles downstream from the GFCI would not be protected by the GFCI receptacle.
To start I would check the connections on the receptacle. Next change the receptacle. It sounds to me there is a corrosion problem here...pkazsr
Electrically there is no reason you couldn't if the neutral exists in the switch box. But in a home, a switch is required just inside every door. So other arrangements would have to be made for that. Replacing a switch with a receptacle would mean there is no longer a switch, of course, for the lights. They would either be on all the time or off all the time. If you need a receptacle at this location, consider installing a combination unit with a switch and single receptacle on the same yoke.
Your pupils would dilate
An engineered set of drawings or blueprints would take precedence over all on an electrical project.
If the 2 hot wires are connected to either side of a receptacle, you have a 240v receptacle (assuming it's in the US). This is typically done for window air conditioners. But code requires that the receptacle have a different configuration than other receptacles in the building so you don't run the risk of plugging in a 120v device into a 240v receptacle.
cause they were able to follow the job
They get old and become weak.
Green typically represents a ground so you would connect to the bare wire at receptacle or look for a green headed screw.