Out of balance tires, worn out tires, (tread separating, etc), bad tie rod ends, idler arm, center link, etc.
your tires need to be ballaced
The EXACT same thing just happened with my car. It would shake at higher speeds, but especially when the brakes were hot after driving for a few minutes. I took my car to the shop yesterday and they diagnosed it as a sticking brake caliper. The caliper is not releasing as it should, therefore making the brakes drag. The technician said he could barely turn the rotor it was so bad. He also said I will get much better gas mileage once it's fixed!
What happens basically is that the brakes stick, causing severe shaking and vibration in the steering wheel. I also felt it in the brake pedal when slowing down from high speeds. It felt exactly like a flat tire. It's basically like having one brake partially on while you are driving. It's very important to have this repaired ASAP as it puts wear on other parts of your car (esp. suspension parts: bearings, tie-rods, etc.). If you continue to drive with a sticking caliper it will eventually cause more damage.
These are the parts that need replacing on my car: calipers, brake pads, and possibly rotors. Sometimes the rotors can be resurfaced if they are not worn down too thin or warped. It is best to replace both driver and passenger side parts even if only one side is bad. If you only do one side, it will cause the car to pull to the opposite side, during braking causing it to wear down fast. You will soon need to replace the other side anyhow. Best to do them both at the same time so they will wear evenly and not cause unequal wear on either side.
But before you bring it into the shop, check your lug nuts to be sure they are not loose. Good luck!
Vibration under acceleration can be caused by a number of factors, but the first to have checked is the tires and wheels. Any out of round or imbalance will show up at speed. Braking is another subject. Here, the most likely candidate is front and/or rear rotors or drums that are not running parallel to their respective hubs. This is not an unusual occurrence and has it's beginnings in how the last brake job was done, or how the wheels were installed. Today's cars MUST have the wheels properly torqued to avoid this type of situation. The correction requires retruing the out of synch rotors/drums.
There are many possibilities including but not limited to:
Tire(s) out of balance.
Bent wheel.
worn/damaged CV joint.
Bent drive shaft (rear wheel drive)
Worn U joints (rear wheel drive)
Those top the list, but there are plenty of other, more obscure possibilities.
It could be because your tires need to be balanced.
Sounds like your wheels need balancing try having them balanced, also check tyre condition for unbalanced wear.
Wheel Bearings, or Tie Rod Ends/Ball Joint
your wheels/tires probably need to be balanced or rotated,
The shaking is likely due to a wheel balance problem. A grumble at speed usually indicates a wheel bearing issue.
Probably wheel balance but you should have the front end checked over to be safe.
false.
It is possible that the wear indicators for the brake pads are touching the rotor, indicating worn brake pads. They probably make the noise all the time, but at higher speeds, the pitch changes, and there is more road noise, so the problem is less noticeable. Depending on how much you drive, and traffic situations, etc, the noise should get a lot more more noticeable within the next couple of days. You will then have to replace the brake pads, ASAP. If not, the pads will tear up the rotors, and then they too will have to be replaced.
If the engine shuts down at highway speeds I will suggest there is insufficient fuel pressure and a failing fuel pump. If all is running well at lower speeds that do not demand a large supply of fuel but the problem shows at higher speeds demanding more fuel supply this is a fuel supply problem. We had one that would vapor lock like that on hot days. the fuel line runs right along the exhaust. I'm assuming it starts back up in 15 to 20 mins. you can install a piece of sheet metal where the fuel line comes close to the exhaust
You delete as you would delete any other app. Hold your finger on it until it begins to shake. Press the small X afterwards, and boom its gone. If you begin to want it back simply download it again.
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A very bad tire - belts separatedOut of balance wheelsWarped brake rotorsSee "Related Questions" below for more
Liquefaction and foundation failures were common.
It could just be the AC compressor causing the engine to shake when running at lower speed. If it's any more than that, the engine might need a tuneup, motor mounts or possibly a burned valve.
more badly, most badly
you have to be more specific for a proper answer... at what speed does it shake?.... 40mph> ? what do you mean mist?
more badly
more badly
You wont hear much of a sound, but more of a vibration at certain speeds. I recently installed a set of tires on my truck and because of an inbalance, around 70mph the truck would start to shake. Once I had it corrected it was smooth sailing.
worse, worst
I would not just call it like. It would be more of an obsession if he chases you around just to get a hand shake.
== == As the car speeds up the unbalanced wheels start to wobble. The force of the wobble is transferred to the cars body through the steering mechanism. You would feel the shaking first in the steering wheel. It becomes more pronounced as you pick up speed. == == * Front end need's religning, bad tires or tie-rods. * Tires are low in air.
Because at higher speeds you have more velocity than at lower speeds transferring more energy to make a bigger crashing causing more damage.