2008 NEC - Section 250.53(G) 30"
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2009 CEC - Rule 10-700(5) The ground rod shall be laid in a trench whose length will be no less than 3 metres and at a depth of no less that 600 mm (24") from the top surface of the rod to finished grade.
It varies from 3 inches to 13 inches. The electrode type, type of weld, and position of weld all determine how far you can get done with a single rod
1.take 2 wire and connect with a bulb holder along with a bulb 2. then put the two open ends to the plug, one in the live line and another end to the neutral end 3. switch on the supply & check brightness 4.switch off supply & plugged out wire from neutral end & put it into earthing point 5. switch on the power, check brightness ,if it is same as before then EARTHING is very good if not then there is a problem with the earthing point
there are 100 inches in a trapseal
#include <stdio.h> int main (void) { unsigned f1, i1, f2, i2; scanf ("Enter the 1st length in feet and inches: %u%u", f1, i1); scanf ("Enter the 2nd length in feet and inches: %u%u", f2, i2); unsigned inches = i1 + i2 + (12 * (f1 + f2)); // sum the inches (convert feet to inches) unsigned feet = inches / 12; // convert inches to feet inches %= 12; // determine the remaining inches printf ("The total length is %u feet %u inches.\n", feet, inches); return 0; }
There are 12 inches in one foot. Therefore, 1.5 feet is equal to 1.5 x 12 = 18 inches.
A plate electrode can be installed at a minimum of 24 inches (600mm).
It varies from 3 inches to 13 inches. The electrode type, type of weld, and position of weld all determine how far you can get done with a single rod
depending on: the type of electrode, and gap between material, and material thickness, and whether or not the groove is beveled... roughly 1 electrode per 8 inches for a cover pass, and 1 electrode per 16 inches for a root pass
36 inches
Well the first grounding rod would be for the meter located outside the home and the second grounding rod would be for cox cable line.but but if you have dishnet work you will not need too. The NEC does not specify how many ground rods should be installed. I can only guess why but it is important to note that ground rods are SUPPLEMENTAL to a water pipe grounding electrode when a water pipe is your primary electrode. It is easy to think of the rod or rods as primary and the water line as secondary but this is not the case. Where I live the local jurisdiction requires 2, and the NEC does specify that when more than one is used they must be a minimum of 6 feet apart. Many times utility companies other than your electric company will install ground rods for their own systems. Many times these are not full 8 foot rods as is required for your electric service. But technically these are not installed properly as the NEC requires that various grounding electrodes (rods) used for the same building but for different purposes must be bonded together and very often they are not. Electrically it probably doesn't matter at the voltages in use but I'm just sharing information.
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72 inches from tub floor.
From the 2011 NEC, Section 250.130 states, in part, "For replacement of non-grounding-type receptacles with grounding-type receptacles...connections shall be permitted as indicated in 250.130(C)." Section 250.130 (C) states in its entirety, "(C) Nongrounding Receptacle Replacement or Branch Circuit Extensions. The equipment grounding conductor of a grounding-type receptacle or a branch-circuit extension shall be permitted to be connected to any of the following: (1) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode system as described in 250.50 (2) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode conductor (3) The equipment grounding terminal bar within the enclosure where the branch circuit for the receptacle or branch circuit originates (4) For grounded systems, the grounded service conductor within the service equipment enclosure" (5) For ungrounded systems, the grounding terminal bar within the service equipment enclosure" Now for some of my thoughts. It sounds like what you got was adequate. It was correct except for he should have used green or bare conductor, not white, unless he used green tape near the end of the conductor to designate it as green. This tape would be inside the box but I would have marked it outside the box also if it is visible. I would have run this conductor as close as possible and preferably attached to the existing circuit conductors. Looping the conductor as you have stated is not the best installation, in my view, but if you have at least 6 inches from the entry of the conductor to the grounding terminal and another 6 inches before it leaves the box, this is ok. The code does not require this 6 inches if the conductor isn't spliced but in your application it should be since, in my view, it should have been spliced. Solid or stranded is of no significance. While I have quoted the 2011 NEC in my answer, I do not expect this has changed any in recent years. The use of the word "bonding" by your electrician was technically incorrect but "bonding" and "grounding" are sometimes used synonymously. They are different but often look alike to the untrained eye. Even electricians often misuse these terms and fail to understand the difference. It takes someone like myself who is a little anal retentive to use the terms properly. I hope you will acknowledge my answer as I am particularly interested to know if you got it.
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The standard spark plug gap for a Volkswagen Polo 1.4i is 0.045 inches. The gap represents the space between the tip and the electrode.
According to the IPC code book it should be a minimum of 12 inches.
11 inches: just installed one myself yesterday.