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You should first check to see if you are not overloading the outlets. If you are, just unplug something and reset the breaker. However, this is also a symptom of circuit breaker failure. In that case, replace it with the same amperage breaker of the same or compatible brand.
First, check the circuit breakers; make sure they are all ON. Find out if any other outlets on the same breaker are working; it's always possible that a breaker is faulty. If the breaker is on and everything else on the circuit is working, it could be as simple as a poor connection inside the outlet. Also even though the outlet is not a GFCI, it may be fed from a GFCI outlet. Check near by outlets to see if any are GFCI and are tripped.
First unplug the TV. Some TVs may still draw current when off, but not enough to cause a breaker to trip. However you still want to make sure you don't fry your TV as you troubleshoot. If there is nothing plugged in to any outlet on the branch circuit and there are no light fixtures the problem is a bad breaker or in the wiring. The ideal is to have an electrician troubleshoot since you can kill yourself while messing with the breaker panel if you don't know what you are doing. Turn breaker off, make sure with a meter that the breaker is no longer hot and remove the wire by unscrewing the lug screw. Do the same for another breaker of the same rating. Hook the first wire removed to the second breaker. Turn on the second breaker. If it doesn't trip the problem is first breaker, and you need to replace it. If the second breaker trips it is the wiring. With the second wire and breaker restored to original connection, leave the first wire disconnected. Measure the resistance with a meter of the disconnected first wire to neutral which are where white wires are connected in panel. If you have everything unplugged there should be an open circuit. If not you need to start disconnecting wires in outlets and fixtures on the branch circuit and determine where the short is. Since breaker stays on for 30 seconds it is likely the breaker since a dead short would trip breaker immediately. The exception would be a short that is causing a current to flow that is very close to the rating of the breaker. If the breaker is good then I suspect you have something plugged in you don't know about.
No, add new breaker,find a junction box and split the series, or add a box and split the load. You only need to do this if the breaker is tripping from overload. 12ga wire should have a 20amp breaker not a 15amp. If I understand your question,wired in parallel, this would be one hot connected to two breakers, first off two breakers is 220v not 120v , and 220v has two hot wires. Never connect two breakers together on one line.
that what is the system type you are working on
Check the circuit breaker/fuse first. Your owners manual should have the location.
You should first check to see if you are not overloading the outlets. If you are, just unplug something and reset the breaker. However, this is also a symptom of circuit breaker failure. In that case, replace it with the same amperage breaker of the same or compatible brand.
Defective blower motor switch, or defective blower motor resistor pack.
First, check the circuit breakers; make sure they are all ON. Find out if any other outlets on the same breaker are working; it's always possible that a breaker is faulty. If the breaker is on and everything else on the circuit is working, it could be as simple as a poor connection inside the outlet. Also even though the outlet is not a GFCI, it may be fed from a GFCI outlet. Check near by outlets to see if any are GFCI and are tripped.
Low coolant? Cooling fan not working? Thermostat not opening? Cooling system air bound? Water pump not circulating coolant? Plugged or restricted radiator? Defective radiator cap?
open it
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First unplug the TV. Some TVs may still draw current when off, but not enough to cause a breaker to trip. However you still want to make sure you don't fry your TV as you troubleshoot. If there is nothing plugged in to any outlet on the branch circuit and there are no light fixtures the problem is a bad breaker or in the wiring. The ideal is to have an electrician troubleshoot since you can kill yourself while messing with the breaker panel if you don't know what you are doing. Turn breaker off, make sure with a meter that the breaker is no longer hot and remove the wire by unscrewing the lug screw. Do the same for another breaker of the same rating. Hook the first wire removed to the second breaker. Turn on the second breaker. If it doesn't trip the problem is first breaker, and you need to replace it. If the second breaker trips it is the wiring. With the second wire and breaker restored to original connection, leave the first wire disconnected. Measure the resistance with a meter of the disconnected first wire to neutral which are where white wires are connected in panel. If you have everything unplugged there should be an open circuit. If not you need to start disconnecting wires in outlets and fixtures on the branch circuit and determine where the short is. Since breaker stays on for 30 seconds it is likely the breaker since a dead short would trip breaker immediately. The exception would be a short that is causing a current to flow that is very close to the rating of the breaker. If the breaker is good then I suspect you have something plugged in you don't know about.
The first thing you should try is your breaker box or fuse box you may just need to replace a fuse or switch a breaker back on.
i dont get it? --- The probability that the first iPod you select is not defective is 16/20. If you selected a non-defective iPod the first time, there are now 15 non-defective iPods out of 19 remaining. So, the odds that the second you selected is non-defective is 15/19. By similar reasoning, the probability that the third is non-defective (given that the first two weren't defective) is 14/18, and for the fourth iPod, it is 13/17. So the probability that none of the four iPods you selected are defective is: (16/20)*(15/19)*(14/18)*(13/17)=364/969, or approximately 37.6%
as an electrician i would first check the main breaker with a rated voltage tester for voltage i would first ckeck the meter side by placing one tester lead on one of incoming phases or wire and place second lead on the other phase or other wire. i should read 240, or 230, or 220 volts depending on where the taps are in the transformer. if not call the power company. if it does read any of them voltages i would then check the load side of the main breaker by putting my leads on one breaker and the one right below it generally every other breaker is a different phase again i should read 240 volts or close. if not the main breaker may be bad. if you know what breaker or circuit its on you could test it by placing one lead on the screw where the wire is and the other on the neutral or ground bar here you should read 120 volts or close if not breaker is bad. it maybe as easy as tightening the screw or screws so shut the breaker off first and then tighten.