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Before doing the chassis lube, pump a little grease out of the gun to clean out any dirt that may have gotten into it. Also clean off any dirt/grease on each zerk before attaching the grease gun fitting, so you don't pump it into the joints. For the upper and lower ball joints and tie-rod ends, pump enough grease into them until the boots are firm to the touch. Be careful not the pump too much in them and possibly bust the boot. For other suspension and steering components, continue pumping until grease oozes out the joint between the two components.

If you have a drive shaft with a zerk on the u-joint, be sure to grease it too.

1 - Drivers side, Upper ball joint

2 - Drivers side, Outer tie-rod end

3 - Drivers side, Lower ball joint

Reduced 67%

337 x 450 (53.18K)

4 - Drivers side, Inner tie-rod end

5 - Drivers side, Pitman arm (at relay rod)

Reduced 67%

450 x 337 (49.4K)

6 - Passengers side, Idler arm (at relay rod)

7 - Passengers side, Upper end of idler arm mount

Reduced 67%

450 x 337 (56.37K)

Close up view of the 90 degree, 6mm, zerk that I replaced on the end of the idler arm, where it connects to the relay rod. With the factory straight zerk, it's next to impossible to get a grease gun fitting on it because of the AC compressor/mount that is above it. Ince replacing this zerk, I've heard that if you turn your wheels to one side (can't remember which) that you can access the factory straight zerk. Since I had already swapped mine out, I haven't tried this.

Reduced 67%

450 x 337 (52.72K)

6 - Passengers side, Idler arm (at relay rod) (Different view. Same as #6 above)

8 - Passengers side, Inner tie-rod end

Reduced 67%

450 x 337 (58.41K)

9 - Passengers side, Lower ball joint

10 - Passengers side, Outer tie-rod end

11 - Passengers side, Upper ball joint

Reduced 67%

337 x 450 (48.59K)

(M. Cueva) gm-trucks.com

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Q: Where are the grease fittings on a 2005 Chevy crew cab?
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