There is a few place you can find a diagram if a strut assembly. You can find a strut assembly diagram online or at an auto part store.
In my '96 beretta the cooling fan relay switch is located on the drivers side strut tower. That may not be the problem. If your fan still won't work after changing the relay switch try the coolant temperature switch/sensor.
== WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE NUT FROM THE STRUT ROD WHILE STRUT ASSEMBLY IS INSTALLED IN VEHICLE, OR BEFORE STRUT ASSEMBLY SPRING IS COMPRESSED. # Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this MDS2, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle. # Remove the wheel and tire assembly from location on front of vehicle requiring strut removal. # If both strut assemblies are to be removed, mark the strut assemblies right or left according to which side of the vehicle they were removed from. # Remove the hydraulic brake hose routing bracket and the speed sensor cable routing bracket from the strut damper brackets Brake Hose And Speed Sensor Cable Routing NOTE: When removing nut from stud of stabilizer bar attaching link, do not allow stud to rotate. Hold stud from rotating by inserting a Torx Plus 40IP bit in the end of the stud as shown in Stabilizer Bar Link To Strut Attachment # Remove the stabilizer bar attaching link Stabilizer Bar Link To Strut Attachment from the bracket on the strut assembly CAUTION: The steering knuckle to strut assembly attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Remove nuts while holding bolts stationary in the steering knuckles. # Remove the 2 strut assembly clevis bracket to steering knuckle attaching bolts Strut Damper Attachment To Steering Knuckle # Remove the 3 nuts attaching the strut assembly upper mount to the strut tower Strut Assembly To Strut Tower Attaching Nuts and remove the strut assembly from the vehicle # To dissassemble and reassemble the strut assembly, refer to DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY in this section. == # Install strut assembly into strut tower, aligning and installing the 3 studs on the upper strut mount into the holes in shock tower. Install the 3 upper strut mount attaching nut/washer assemblies Strut Assembly To Strut Tower Attaching Nuts Then using a crow foot. tighten the 3 attaching nuts to a torque of 28 NÂ·m (250 in. lbs.) CAUTION: The steering knuckle to strut assembly attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install nuts while holding bolts stationary in the steering knuckles. # Align strut assembly with steering knuckle. Position arm of steering knuckle into strut assembly clevis bracket. Align the strut assembly clevis bracket mounting holes with the steering knuckle mounting holes. Install the 2 strut assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Strut Damper Attachment To Steering Knuckle If strut assembly is attached to steering knuckle using a cam bolt, the cam bolt must be installed in the lower slotted hole on strut clevis bracket. Also, attaching bolts should be installed with the nuts facing the front of the vehicle Strut Damper Attachment To Steering Knuckle Tighten the strut assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts to a torque of 88 NÂ·m (65 ft. lbs.) plus an additional 1/4 turn after specified torque is met. # Install stabilizer bar attaching link Stabilizer Bar Link To Strut Attachment on bracket of strut assembly. Install stabilizer bar attaching link to strut bracket attaching nut NOTE: When torquing nut on stud of stabilizer bar attaching link, do not allow stud to rotate. Hold stud from rotating by inserting a Torx Plus 40IP bit in the end of the stud as shown in Torquing Stabilizer Bar Link To Strut Attaching Nut# Tighten the stabilizer bar link to strut attaching nut using a Torx Plus 40IP bit and crowfoot as shown in Torquing Stabilizer Bar Link To Strut Attaching Nut to a torque of 88 NÂ·m (65 ft. lbs.) # Install hydraulic brake hose and speed sensor cable routing brackets on the strut assembly brackets Brake Hose And Speed Sensor Cable Routing Tighten the routing bracket attaching bolts to a torque of 13 NÂ·m (10 ft. lbs.) # Install the wheel/tire assembly on the vehicle. # Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 NÂ·m (100 ft. lbs.)
You will need to compress the strut spring with a spring compressor. When the strut spring is compressed remove the strut retaining bolts. There is a strut retaining bolt on the top and the bottom of the strut assembly. Reverse the process to install the new strut.
You have to take the whole strut assembly off (shock and spring). Then with a spring compressor on the coil spring, take the top nut off the strut shaft and take the spring off. Once the spring is off the whole strut assembly is replaced which will contain a new shock. Then you already have the spring compressed, so you put the old spring on to new strut (shock) put the top back on, release the spring and tighten the nut. You have to have a vise to clamp the strut into to replace the strut body.
unbolst strut from the vehicle. compress the springs with spring tool. take large nut from top of strut assembly. remove spring from assembly. use tool to unscrew the top of the strut cartridge. slide top off of strut piston. take strut cartridge out and replace with new one. then revers the steps.
Compress the strut spring with a spring compressor. Remove the retaining bolts from the top and bottom of the strut. Remove the strut assembly. Reverse the process to install the new strut.
a test to tesy ur strut assembly is to rock the car on the front and see if it returns in one rebound if not it is time to go and get some new springs
I have a 1990 Chevy Lumina and when you hear clunking sounds when going over bumps or dips or if you have ever replaced your strut assembly you should replace the mounts. You can buy a quickstrut online for a lumina. Front is around $180 and rear is around $80. Hope that helps!
4 engine mounts. front right, front center, torch strut that supports the radiador, & transmission mount
you will need a spring compressor to do this job. or you could remove the strut & spring assembly & take them to a local shop and have them swap strut assemblies. if you dont have a spring compressor, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR. the springs are very strong and can injure you severely. i will tell you how to get the assembly out. once the tire is off, you will see 2 bolts on the lower end of the strut. remove these 2 bolts. then, under the hood you will see 3 13mm bolts holding the strut mount in. remove these and the strut assembly will come right out. after this, you need a spring compressor. also you will have to have a wheel alignment performed after replacement, your alignment angles will be all messed up when you are done. this is normal.
One lower control arm for each front strut.
on a 2000 3.1 it is on passenger side between firewall and engine!! if a four check right by right strut tower. the cap has an "L" on it!!
Take the strut from the left and use this
The top of the strut rod should be flattened slightly into a rectangular shape. It should be enough that you can take a crescent wrench and hold the flattened part with it. Use an open end wrench for the nut, putting it on first, then the crescent. Turn them opposite directions to loosen the nut.
I would say with the right special too this is the easiest strut to change in the cars of todayyou will need a special tool you will remove the center nut on strut with car on the ground then with this tool it will turn special nut and the strut is a cartridge this is not a easy job
Since the strut bearing is part of the strut-coil spring assembly, the whole thing will have to come out and be disassembled. See "Related Questions" below for extensive information on these procedures.
Jack your vehicle up and remove the wheel.ÊFind the strut assembly on the Z34 and remove the three strut bolts on each side. If they are rusted use a bit of WD-40 to loosen them. Remove the bolts connecting the strut tower to the fender. Pull the old strut free and assemble the new strut.
Under the hood on the engine block. behind the right (passenger side) front strut . Accessable by either putting car on ramp or jacking it up with wheels turned to the right.
Preform a bounce test before you fitted the sturt and then again after you have fitted the strut to make sure the bounce is similar to what it needs to be.
1. Remove or disconnect the following:Rear wheels from the vehicle and support the rear axle with a jackStrut lower mounting through-boltsNote: Be sure to note the position the strut upper plate to the vehicle for reinstallation purposes.2 nuts from the top of the strutStrut as an assemblyNote: Do not remove the center locknut from the strut assembly until the strut is safely compressed.2. Compress the strut coil spring with a spring compressor.Strut assembly center locknutNote: Before removing the strut from the coil spring, note the positioning of the strut in relationship to the coil spring for reassembly.Strut leaving the coil spring compressedNote: Mark the coil spring position to the strut assembly for reinstallation purposes.3. To remove the spring from the strut assembly, perform the following steps:Compress the coil spring with the proper compressor tool.Remove the center retaining nut holding strut mounting insulator.Slowly decompress the coil spring.Remove the strut mounting insulator.Remove coil spring.To install:1. Install or connect the following:Coil spring onto the strut assembly. Be sure to align the matchmarks made during the removal procedure.Strut mounting insulator and compress the coil spring assemblyNote: It will be necessary to use a new locknut for the center retaining nut of the coil spring.Center retaining nut and torque to 43-58 ft. lbs. (59-78 Nm). Be sure the spring is seated properly on the strut and in the mounting insulator.2. Slowly remove the spring compressor tool.Strut assembly and torque the upper nuts to 31-40 ft. lbs. (42-54 Nm)Lower strut through-bolt and torque to 123-137 ft. lbs. (167-186 Nm)Note: Be sure to hold the through-bolt and tighten the nuts.3. Install the wheels, lower the vehicle and perform a front end alignment.
most likely it is a cv joint going bad, but it can also be a strut tower, or a tie rod... front right strut
To replace the strut you have to jack up the car on the side you want to do and take off the wheel. Then, take it loose from the strut tower on the top. There are 3 or 4 nuts. Then take it loose from the steering knuckle on the bottom. The whole strut assembly lifts out. To replace the coil you have to have a strut compressor. It compresses the coil spring so the top of the strut can come off. Once the top of the strut is exposed the coil can be taken off the strut.
You'll need a coil spring compressor. Jack up the rear end. Remove rear tire. Open the rear trunk - remove rubber cover / locate the "three" mounting bolts to the assemby. Remove lower mounting bolt on strut. Remove strut assembly -caution ... it's under a lot of pressure from the coil spring. Remove the OLD strut from the assembly. To replace the new strut, you'll need to compress the coil spring as much as possible. Re-assemble the strut to the mounting hardware. Push the "three bolt" assembly through the trunk mount and tighten. Re-attach the lower mounting bolt to the strut. Be advised "under a lot of pressure from the coil spring." Is a serious understatement. You need a special tool to compress this strut and attempting to disassemble strut without the tool locking it in could result in SERIOUS injury or even death.
Begin by compressing the strut spring with a spring compressor. Be very careful as the strut spring will be under hundreds of pounds of pressure. Remove the strut retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new struts.