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Q: Where does Vacuum Modulator hose attach to manifold on 1988 ford e 350 econoline van?
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Where do the vacuum lines hook up to an Edelbrock Performer 2181 intake manifold?

On the sbf windsor manifolds, there is a threaded hole behind(toward rear of manifold) where the carb goes. You will need to screw in a vacuum tree there. As a basic rule of thumb, vacuum lines will always attach to one of the manifold runners that lead to the intake valve(s). Also...pretty much all carbs have vacuum ports. The ones in the base plate are full vacuum, while the ones in the body are usually ported or timed vacuum( like for dist advance). Bri On the sbf windsor manifolds, there is a threaded hole behind(toward rear of manifold) where the carb goes. You will need to screw in a vacuum tree there. As a basic rule of thumb, vacuum lines will always attach to one of the manifold runners that lead to the intake valve(s). Also...pretty much all carbs have vacuum ports. The ones in the base plate are full vacuum, while the ones in the body are usually ported or timed vacuum( like for dist advance). Bri


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Where do you attach the modulator hose on the motor of 454 Chevy 1984?

There should be a vaccum source / T that is screewed into the back top side of the intake manifold and that line will plug in there. It must go to a vaccum source at all times when engine is idleing. ( direct vaccum )


How do you replace the vacuum module on a C4 transmission?

The vacuum MODULATOR on a Ford C-4 transmission is located on the passenger side of the main case, usually just around the rear of the transmission crossmember. A rubber vacuum hose usually connects it to a steel hose, that runs forward and then up the back of the engine, where another piece of rubber hose then plugs into a vacuum port on the intake manifold. Many early (60's) modulators screwed into the transmission case, while later ones usually pressed in, and were retained by a screw and C-clip. If you look at the front part of the modulator (where it goes into the case) and see a hex nut and/or threads, just pull off the rubber hose from the back end, then unscrew the modulator with a wrench, and remove it. If you don't see the hex nut on the front end, you should see a C-clip and screw that retain the modulator. Again, pull off the rubber line from the back end, then remove the screw with a wrench and take off the clip. Pull the modulator towards the rear to remove it. Take the pin that protrudes from the center of the part of the modulator that goes into the transmission, and install it into the replacement modulator. Carefully clean around the modulator hole on the transmission, being careful not to get any dirt/debris inside the opening. Then install the modulator by either pressing it firmly into place, or screwing it in, as appropriate for the style you have. Re-install the C-clip and screw, or tighten the hex nut, then re-attach the rubber vacuum line. You should be good to go!. Note that many Ford modulators have a small screw inside the tip where the rubber vacuum line attaches. Rotating this screw in or out, 1/4-turn at a time, will affect how the transmission shifts...earlier or later shifts/softer or firmer shifts...within a limited range. Start with the factory adjustment, and only change if something's clearly not right, or you understand what you're doing!


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No AC systems have drain plugs. You do have two valves a low side and high side valve. To vacuum the system you have to evacuate the system first. Then attach a Manifold AC service gauge set to the valves and use a vacuum pump. This really should be done by someone who is familiar with AC service.