Auto Parts and Repairs

Where is and how do you remove the starter motor on your 90 golf gl?

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2009-09-27 07:51:53
2009-09-27 07:51:53

Disconnect battery, starter is located somewhere by where engine meets transmission. Remove all electric connections then remove bolts securing starter. Install new starter, attach electric connections, connect battery and your done.

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Remove the starter cables. Remove the starter retaining bolts. The starter will come off. Reverse the process to install the new starter.


I have a 90' ZR1 and the starter is under the plenum a costly job about $700 plus parts. They have to remove the top of the engine to get to it.


get a starter switch from your parts store so you can hook dierctly to the starter when your under the hood sinc its dierect if it starts it most likely loose contact if it doesn't start check g.n.d.(-) and try 1s more


On the lower half of motor closest to front of car right by the oil pan.


# Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. # Raise and support the vehicle. # Disconnect the battery cable and solenoid feed wire from the starter solenoid # Remove the two starter mounting screws, the starter motor, and any starter motor shims # Reverse the removal procedures to install. Tighten the starter hardware as follows: #* Mounting screws - 45 N·m (33 ft. lbs.) #* Solenoid battery cable nut - 10 N·m (90 in. lbs.) #* Solenoid terminal nut - 6 N·m (55 in. lbs.) == # Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. # Raise and support the vehicle. # Disconnect the battery cable and solenoid feed wire from the starter solenoid # Remove the lower starter mounting screw. # Remove the upper starter mounting screw and the starter motor. # Reverse the removal procedures to install. Tighten the starter hardware as follows: #* Upper mounting screw (rear screw) - 55 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) #* Lower mounting screw (front screw) - 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) #* Solenoid battery cable nut - 10 N·m (90 in. lbs.) #* Solenoid terminal nut - 6 N·m (55 in. lbs.)


By adding an additional starting winding with a resistance in series at an angle of 90 degree from running winding we can made the motor self starter


You can spray starter fluid directly into the air intake. You can also remove the cover to the air filter and spray it directly into the air filter.


remove hood supports so hood can open about 90 degrees. support with stick or like me, bungee it to garage door runners. remove wipers arms and link to wiper motor, all screws on cawling, weather strip lifts off. remove cawl cover(remove washer hose), lift lid off motor box (3 tabs on side). remove 3 screws holing motor in, unplug motor.


yes and there 90 golf courses around Tokio.


Most likely reason (90% of the time) is due to a low charge on the battery, most garages will be able to check the battery charge (normally or free), otherwise your earth cable may not have a great connection, or you have a worn starter motor.


Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait at least 90 seconds to proceed work due to the SRS system.Remove the glove compartment.Detach the blower motor electrical connector.Remove the blower motor by extracting the 3 screws.


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION # Disconnect the negative battery cable. # Raise and support the vehicle safely. # If necessary for access, remove the splash shield. # If equipped, unfasten the flywheel inspection cover bolts and remove the cover. # Label and detach the electrical connectors from the starter.Fig. 2: Unfasten the starter motor electrical connections. You may want to tag them first to avoid confusionFig. 3: Exploded view of the starter motor electrical connections# It may allow more room it you remove the right side cooling fan. # Remove the starter-to-engine bolts, then carefully lower the starter from the vehicle.Fig. 4: The starter is attached to the engine with 2 mounting boltsFig. 5: Unfasten the front mounting bolt and remove any necessary shims, noting their locations for installationFig. 6: Unfasten the long starter mounting bolt, then remove the starter motor from the vehicleBefore installing the starter motor, make sure the electrical terminals are secure by tightening the nuts next to the cap on the solenoid battery terminal and on the "S" terminal. If these terminals are not tight in the solenoid cap, the cap may be damaged during installation of the electrical connections and cause premature starter failure.Fig. 7: Exploded view of the starter motor mounting - 1987-97 vehiclesTo install: Note the location of any shims so they may be replaced in the same positions upon installation. # Place the starter in position, then install the starter-to-engine bolts and tighten to 1 ft. lbs. (43 Nm). # Attach the electrical connectors to the starter, as tagged during removal. Tighten as follows: ## Tighten the nut on the solenoid battery terminal to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm). ## On the SD-250 and SD-255 models, tighten the nut on the "S" terminal to 22 inch lbs. (2.5 Nm). # If removed, install the flywheel inspection cover and secure with the retaining bolts. Tighten the flywheel cover bolts to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). # If removed, install the splash shield. # Carefully lower the vehicle. # Connect the negative battery cable.SOLENOID REPLACEMENT # Remove the starter, as outlined earlier in this section. # Remove the screw from the field strap at the rear of the starter. # Remove the 2 bolts holding the solenoid to the starter. # Rotate the solenoid 90 degrees and remove it from the starter. Be aware that there is a large spring behind the solenoid. To install: # Push solenoid and spring onto starter and rotate into position. # Install the mounting bolts and tighten to 60 inch. lbs. (6.5 Nm). # Install screw to field strap and tighten the retaining screw to 75 inch lbs. (8.5 Nm). # Install the starter, as outlined earlier in this section.


Unfortunately the starter ois located in the valley between the cylinder banks you have to remove the intake to replace it.(very labor intensive procedure) intake gaskets are about$90 and the starter from Autozone is about $250. you better know what you are doing befor you tear into this engine....


== # Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. # Raise and support the vehicle. # Remove the nuts from the terminal studs for the starter battery lead and solenoid lead # Remove the hardware securing the starter to the bellhousing # Move the starter forward to clear the lower mounting stud (V-6/V-8 engine) and for the starter gear housing nose to clear the bellhousing. This allows the starter to come down past the exhaust pipe # Reverse the removal procedures to install. Tighten the starter hardware as follows: #* Starter mounting bolts to 68 N·m (50 ft. lbs.) #* Starter mounting nut - 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) #* Battery lead terminal nut - 14 N·m (120 in. lbs.) #* Solenoid lead terminal nut - 2.5 N·m (22 in. lbs.) == # Disconnect and isolate both of the battery negative cables. # Raise and support the vehicle. # Remove the battery lead from the solenoid terminal by pulling the rubber boot up and removing the nut # Remove the nut from the solenoid lead terminal at the solenoid. # Remove the starter mounting bolts # Remove the starter motor. # Reverse the removal procedures to install. Tighten the starter hardware as follows: #* Starter mounting bolts - 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs.) #* Solenoid lead nut - 6 N·m (55 in. lbs.) #* Battery lead nut - 10 N·m (90 in. lbs.)


# Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. # Raise and support the vehicle. # Remove the nuts from the terminal studs for the starter battery lead and solenoid lead # Remove the hardware securing the starter to the bellhousing # Move the starter forward to clear the lower mounting stud (V-6/V-8 engine) and for the starter gear housing nose to clear the bellhousing. This allows the starter to come down past the exhaust pipe # Reverse the removal procedures to install. Tighten the starter hardware as follows: #* Starter mounting bolts to 68 N·m (50 ft. lbs.) #* Starter mounting nut - 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) #* Battery lead terminal nut - 14 N·m (120 in. lbs.) #* Solenoid lead terminal nut - 2.5 N·m (22 in. lbs.) == # Disconnect and isolate both of the battery negative cables. # Raise and support the vehicle. # Remove the battery lead from the solenoid terminal by pulling the rubber boot up and removing the nut # Remove the nut from the solenoid lead terminal at the solenoid. # Remove the starter mounting bolts # Remove the starter motor. # Reverse the removal procedures to install. Tighten the starter hardware as follows: #* Starter mounting bolts - 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs.) #* Solenoid lead nut - 6 N·m (55 in. lbs.) #* Battery lead nut - 10 N·m (90 in. lbs.)


Lift the front of your car. It's under engine near transmission on drivers side. disconnect your battery. then disconnect 3 wires from starter. then unscrew 3 bolts those hold starter. remove starter, insert a new one and do as above in oposite way. __________________________________________________________________________ The Starter is in the front of the motor, right next to the oil pan. If you follow the positive battery cable from the battery, it will take you right to the starter. The starter is a direct drive starter and is very easy to change. be sure to disconnect the positive battery connector from the battery before you begin the removal of the starter. your bottom radiator hose may block you from lowering the starter, just move the hose and tug, it will come out. Good Luck and it should take about 90 minutes to R+R the starter.



I was a mechanic on Mazdas for 9 years. Can't remember the particular model 1998, but generally, here's how to remove the starter on a 90's Protege: Disconnect the negative battery terminal to remove power from the starter. The starter and starter solenoid are one unit. There should be 2 or 3 14mm bolts holding the starter to the tranny. At least one of these bolts is accessed from above the transmission, requiring the removal of (at least)the air filter housing and intake, and the battery and tray if you want to make it easy on yourself. Remove those first, then remove the top starter bolt before you go under the car. You might be able to access the top bolt from the left wheel well if you take out the plastic splash guard behind the left wheel, and have a nice long extension with a "wobbly" 14mm socket. There are a number of 10mm bolts and a few plastic fasteners that hold this on. I believe the starter is located behind a bracket that supports the intake manifold from the engiine block. Remove the 4 bolts on this bracket and remove it from the vehicle. The starter wire may be attached to this bracket with a plastic clip, just undo the clip and the bracket should come right out. The bolts that hold the bracket on the manifold end are usually pretty hard to get to; be patient. Once you have access to the starter, there should be either 1 or two bolts that hold the starter in on the bottom. Remove the bolts and carefully remove the starter from it's position in the transmission. Once you have the starter free, remove the starter cable and the small wire from the clip on the starter solenoid. Re-install in reverse order.


The 90 Corvette had a 350 c.i. engine


You get 90 cards, a playing field, 1 rare card and a starter hand book.


Is it doing anything at all when you turn the key? If not, then most likely it's either a dead battery, loose/corroded battery connections, or loose/corroded starter motor connections. Less common but possible is the ignition key switch. If you hear a fast spinning sound but the engine itself does not turn over, then your starter motor is not engaging the flywheel and you will need to replace either the starter motor (more likely) or flywheel (less likely). Pray it's neither one of those, but sometimes you can get a sticky starter to work temporarily by rapping it a couple times with a hammer...IF you can reach it on these MPVs...


The whole wiper motor likely needs to be replced - -fgo to a dealer and it will cost you $400 for a new GM wiper motor - do it yourself and its about $90. Go to your local auto supplier and get an after market rebuilt motor. You have to remove the arm - the is a little bolt on it. Then you have to remove the big plastic bolt that the wiper motor drive goes through. You will also have to remove the plastic panel inside the vans hatch. Good luck - not a tough job and a good way to save a bunch.


For 18 holes you shoot 89 or less.



It depends on the impedance of the induction motor. By rearranging ohms law, I=V/R where V would be 90% of Vmax



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