It is probably located on top of the valve cover on the right hand side of the engine.
For the computer, it is located... Well follow your throtle cable down to the top of you engine. Just below where it attaches, you'll see a two wire plug. Remove the plug, and...there it is. Use a 3/4 in. socket. Now, if we are talking the one for the gauge.... I'll have to let you know. That's what I am here looking for. Adam Shump firstname.lastname@example.org
Verify the plug wires are connected correctly. Look here: http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-1312.htm It can also be a bad spark plug, or plug wire. A burnt valve or blown head gasket is another possibility. A weak injector on that cylinder is possible. A compression check is in order if the ignition system is found to be OK. This will detect a blown gasket or burnt valve.
You could do as the last guy suggested, which would be a good idea...BUT...in the case that you pull all these plugs out at on time, here are a few good ways to know what firing order they go in: 1. You can go off of the length of the wires. The wires only reach so far and non of them should be over stretched or dangling. 2. The cylinder's order is   <---back of engine     <---front of engine 3. Cylinder 1 ignition coil is ALWAYS connected to number 4 Cylinder 3 ignition coil is ALWAYS connected to number 6 Cylinder 5 ignition coil is ALWAYS connected to number 2 This is a funky order set up, but that is how it is on the 3.4L V6 engine of my 96 Toyota T100. Hopefully that helps.
DARKSEID007 My Advice: The best thing to do is to tighten the sparkplugs down with a ratchet and socket till it is just tight enough to not turn by your fingers. (SNUG if you will technical terms) then you take the ratchet and turn it 1/4 of a turn and it will tighten it enough without overtightening or stripping the threads out of the motor. 1/4 means if u have the ratchet end at a 12 o' clock position turn it till the end of the ratchet goes around to the 3 o' clock position. Hope this helps.
take it to a Toyota dealership, have them run the code through the scan tool and reset the light as necessaryAnswerYou could, if you want to waste your money. All you have to do is disconnect the negative cable from your battery, wait a minute and reconnect it. This resets your computer. Also, you can buy a cheap code reader for around $50 instead of paying around $80 to get it done at the dealership. They are easy to use and plug in usually under your steering wheel or under the seat. They are useful for finding whats wrong but wont tell you great details like the expensive ones do.
Never mind, I found it earlier today. For those of you who do not know but would like to know, It has a 2wire sensor and the 1 wire sending unit(which is green). I confused the sending unit with the 2 wire cts until I looked at it and noticed it wasnt it so that's when I decided to ask here but I found it shortly after. It is kindve behind/below the throttle body to the right side if you are looking at the engine from the front. its the brass/heavy duty looking sensor right by the thermostat(to the right of it). the sensor is $8 at discount auto and $30 from GM. It should be a 19mm wrench size. its easy to take out once you have the coil pack unbolted and moved aside, just mark the coil plugs if you want to take them off so you can rememebr where they go later. also make sure you wrap the new sensor with white teflon tape before putting it in to help seal it and prevent water from leaking. Elliot
The south end of Runway-34L at Narita International Airport is located at 35.7492Â° north latitude 140.3864Â° east longitude. In the city, the center of the penthouse-level rooftop on the Tokyo Palace Hotel, just southeast of the Imperial Palace grounds, is located at 35.6846Â° north latitude 139.7614Â° east longitude. Other places around the city and the prefecture have different coordinates.
It means you will have a minimum of a $900 repair bill unless you do it yourself, and by the question I'm guessing that you wont be doing it yourself. It will cost you another $400 to repair/replace your Heater core -- because you will notice you car no longer puts out heat -- the core is plugged up by sludge and you wont be able to clean it. GM had the bright idea of using a PLASTIC intake manifold gasket I cant remember the years but think its 92 - 2000-- if your engine ever got low on coolant and overheated, the Plastic gasket will melt and deform, since water and oil are close together its very easy for them to make it where it shouldnt go after its melted. The replacement gaskets are $120 and made out of Aluminum and Rubber -- you also get the valve cover and Head Gasket set included from the dealer. Two things you have to check for --- You say you have Exhaust in your radiator, how do you know this, did you get a test kit with the blue stuff that turns yellow if there is, if that is so, then you have a blown Head gasket. If your fluid was the consistency of runny mud -- in your overflow or in your radiator when you flushed it, you likely have an Intake Manifold leak. Normally you could check for a head gasket leak by taking the spark plugs out and doing a compression check on each cylinder. But on these cars they are impossible to get to unless you are on a rack I replaced the intake manifold gasket myself -- its a pretty big job -- you have to remove the fuel rail and injectors -- your lower back will be killing you by the time you are finished. online manuals are available at www.autozone.com
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