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Where is the voltage regulator on an older 1986 Honda Prelude?

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2007-04-18 08:04:58
2007-04-18 08:04:58

is inside the alternater

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The voltage regulator may be on the back of your alternator ( or on older vehicles the voltage regulator was separate / external )

If it is a newer fuel injected Chrysler, the engine computer is the voltage regulator. If it is an older carbureted Chrysler, there will be a regulator mounted on the firewall.

The voltage regulator has the job of making the voltage 'constant'. In most modern vehicles the regulator is located in the alternator, in older models the regulator is located separate. If your voltage is jumping around a lot then you either have a problem with the battery (batteries stabilize the voltage also)or the charging system (and probably the voltage regulator)

If it's like my 1987, and I imagine it is, the alternator is internally regulated, so you won't find a voltage regulator box like you would on some older vehicles. In short, the voltage regulator is in the alternator.

If you are talking about the voltage regulator on older models then it is on the firewall behind the engine.

The standard engine for the 1992 Honda Prelude is the H22. The H16 will also fit. However, it was used in many of the older models.

No. The DC output from the voltage regulator is connected directly to either the positive terminal of the battery or the hot side of the starter relay on some older models.

definitely the h22 engine from it's older brother prelude. is the best engine with 200hp stock. most of the people who have done that says that the prelude engine H22A1 will fit direct bolt in in any 90-97 Honda accord engine bay.

A 1970 ford has a external regulator It's probably possible to adjust one by ajusting the contact points inside the regulator and I'm assuming it has a older style regulator but I don't think it will do much good. Replace the regulator. Disconnect the battery hook up the regulator hook battery up and boom it's polarized.

On older models, it was usually on the core support or inner fender. From the early 70's it was inside the alternator.

A voltage regulator used on older aircraft electrical system. It is comprised of three units, hence the name. The first unit is a breaker point assembly, followed by a current limiter, and finally a reverse current relay.

Mexico uses the 120V/60Hz standard. You should be aware that when plugging older appliances, they most surely would require a a voltage regulator.

Stator: This is the device that acts as an alternator. It delivers a charge to your battery to keep up. Most older bikes have to have the engine removed to change this.

Voltage regulators are often built into the alternators now, this wasn't always the case. Older vehicles had separate voltage regulators mounted on firewalls or the side of the engine compartment, wired in between from the alternator to the battery. The positive lead now goes directly to the battery from the alternator/regulator.

I have never messed with the older models only the fuel injected ones. I am fairly certain that you don't have a carbureator on that car. I believe it is throttle body injection.

Older Vehicles (even up to 1998 or so) had external regulators but nowadays most all of them are "solid state" units and built into the vehicle's alternator.

The charging system on modern cars has 2 parts. The alternator and battery. On older cars there is also the voyage regulator. On modern cars it is built into the alternator. The electrical system however has many more parts.

It generates 12V unless its an older 6V model the correct question is probably how many Watts does it produce

If your voltage is normal at idle and shoots up as you increase RPM, then I'd say your voltage regulator is bad. In older cars, it is a separate part, but most cars, it is built in to the alternator. It is more cost effective to replace the whole unit. You can have it pulled off and tested at your local auto parts store.

The same thing happened to me in my 1984 Mercury (I know, not the same), But it turned out to be the voltage regulator. Some older alternaters dont have internal voltage regulators.

Only if it is an older Honda that does not have a chip in the key.

Voltage regulator a loose connection. Look around the switch. No loose wires or corroded terminals? Get a new regulator and put it on. Really the only way to test it on older bikes.

You will want to confer with a propane expert before installing any regulator, as this type of work has to be done by a certified expert. They will most likely recommend a Maxitrol gas pressure regulator.

Ah, you have made one of the most common and easiest mistakes to make in automotive maintenance. Because the 'battery voltage' idiot light came on, you assumed that the battery was bad. Did you have an automotive electrical specialist test the electrical system on your car? Did you have the battery tested at a battery shop? Did you know that there are 3 primary parts to an automotive electrical system, and anyone of them can be responsible for the system operating below required voltage levels? Most modern automobiles generate electricity with a device called an alternator, which is driven by a belt from the crankshaft. The alternator generates Direct Current, at voltages up to 20 volts, in some cases. To keep the alternator from frying the battery, a Voltage Regulator is used to control the output of the alternator. This insures that the battery is only charged with a current of 18 volts, or less. Most modern alterators have the voltage regulator inside, but on older cars, the voltage regulator is mounted on the fender or the firewall, somewhere in the engine compartment. So, the alternator generates the electricity used to charge the battery, but the voltage regulator controls the output of the alternator. If the alternator is going bad, it may not be generating enough voltage to charge the battery. The battery is usually a 12 volt battery, and must see more than 12 volts to charge. Or, the alternator output might be reduced to an unusable level by the voltage regulator. Before you replace the entire electrical system, take the car to an automotive electrical specialist for testing. They can determine exactly which component is not working, and repair it. (Note: If the voltage regulator is bad, this DOES NOT mean that the entire alternator must be replaced! In almost all cases, the voltage regulator can be replaced by disassembling the alternator. If the specialist insists that the alternator must be replaced, I would recommend getting a second opinion, even though testing is often not free. Voltage regulators are fairly cheap, and can be replaced by a competent technician without too much difficulty. Alternators are expensive.)


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