hugh ?
The first VCR was 'probably,' made in the year- of 1968.
There will be a metal panel at the back with the number on it.
I don't understand why you would have Direct TV (sattelite) and cable TV? However, it depends on the input/output combinations of each component. I have my coaxial cable from my sattelite to the sattelite in jack on the sattelite receiver, the out to TV coaxial from the sattelite receiver run to my VCR plugged to antenna in on the VCR and a coaxial cable from the VCR to the TV coaxial antenna in on the TV. That way, you can watch sattelite without turning the VCR on, but the sattelite receiver has to be off to watch VCR or VHS tapes. Then, run video patch cords (red, white and yellow) out of the DVD to the TV (if the TV has those types of inputs on the back) If you want all three components (sattelite, VCR and DVD) to run through surround sound and NOT the TV, run only the yellow video cord from the DVD to the TV. Run the red and white to the surround sound receiver for each component. Your surround receiver should have multiple inputs for sattelite/cable, VCR and DVD.
Wow, a really vague question. OK, we'll work with it going from a well designed VCR down to a low-end model. High-end VCR's (and other electronic devices) have "Varistors" in them, often called MOV's ("Metal Oxide Varistors"). What are they? Think of them as keepers of a damn, and when the water gets too high, they close the damn. Varistors are rated by voltage and joules (the amount of current that it can't handle). So, for example, a high-end VCR might have a 130 volt or a 150 volt MOV in it. Normally, a MOV appears transparent to the electronics and the voltage, like it doesn't even exist. But, when the voltage applied to it hit's the threshold it is rated for, it shorts out (kind of like connecting two wires togeter), in an effort to protect the electronics further on. To prevent the device from blowing the fuse/circuit breaker in your house, a fuse is *always* added before the MOV, so that when the MOV blows (shorts out), it will force the fuse to blow (open), breaking the connection. So, in a high-end VCR, you would have to replace the MOV and the fuse. Sure, you could get away with just removing the MOV (they cannot be "reset) and just put in a new fuse, but that woudn't be doing it "right". Cheaper VCR's have a fuse and a power transformer. Fairly obviously, you would want to replace the fuse. The cheapest VCR's have power transformers that have built-in thermal fuses, that upon a surge, detect the increased heat and permanently blow. While one might be tempted to simply remove the thermal fuse, it could be a very signficant (and dangerous) act. Often when a transformer blows, some of it's windings get shorted together, creating increased current and therefore increased heat. Bypassing the thermal fuse is great way to get a visit from your local fire department. In this case you would first replace the transformer (and if the fuse if blown), and see how it works. If all holds well, you're fine. If it blows again, more circuitry is shorted (down the power supply line) and it would probably be a good time to get a new VCR.
Directions from my grandson: step 1: hook up all the three spliter or red, yellow and white cords into the appropriate places on the back of your tv and your DVD or vcr. Just hook one up and try it; then put it in another location until you get it right. My DVD/tv told me where to place stuff; my brand new HD tv did not. step 2: my grandson neglected to tell me! On your remote for your tv might be an <strong>"input" button</strong>. You have to press the input button and select DVD or VCR so your tv knows what to play. It took me several hours to figure out this last step! It seems all the experts forget it! Sherrie
table, vcr, clock, goals
VCR Radio Computer Watch Microwave Wall TV
The first `consumer VCR' was put on the market by Sony in 1974. It was the Betamax and could only record one hour at a time. It also came with a clock that had a plug in the back for the VCR and it was used as a timer mechanism. You'd set the clock to `alarm' just like any other clock, but instead, it would turn on the power to the VCR, which would then start recording. (For what it's worth, I no longer have the VCR, but I still have the clock and I use it even today.) Sony also invented the VHS format, but sold it to JVC because Sony didn't feel that the picture quality was good enough over all. That's also what killed the Betamax: recording time. VHS could do six or eight hours, depending on the tape and Sony couldn't do more than four and a half. Naturally, as it turns out, picture quality wasn't as important as recording time to the average consumer. Of course, the later versions of the VHS machine had made several improvements which allowed for a half way decent picture in the extended mode. Funny thing is, Sony had to license the rights back to make VHS recorders. Go figure.
A VCR stand is not necessary to make a VCR working properly as it is only a piece of furniture used to hold the VCR. A VCR will work as long as it is plugged into the wall and hooked up to a TV.
The abbreviation of VCR is...
You take it apart and put it in a New box and use buttons to push play rewind record stop eject pause or fast forward
Yes, as long as your VCR has an composite input. Simply plug the composite cables from your PS3 into your VCR. If you plan on playing your PS3 through your VCR this way your VCR must be turned on for it to work.
main parts of a vcr
3 hours on a 3 hour tape, unless you run it at half speed (double play).
Buy a new VCR, then use the remote that came with the new VCR to control the new VCR. Also get a DVD player you caveman
The VCR has a series of control buttons on the front of the unit, Power, Eject, Stop, Play, Pause, Forward and Rewind. In addition, an infra-red remote control can be used which also includes tracking adjustments, still advance and re-play features.
A VCR has a tracker, so multiple speeds.