Hey buddy I am having the same exact problem with my fathers car and am working on it a little more today, here is some info as to what I already did to try and fix this phantom problem maybe it can save you time. I have a 1995 cougar XR7 3.8L distributer ignition & non supercharged that intermittently wont start.The usual scenario is that it starts up when cold I take it to the store,shop for 30-45min try to start & it cranks but wont start.I verified there is no spark at the distributer when it wont start.After waiting like 30min to several hours,depending on the phantoms whim,it will start.Also the cars ignition died while driving for a split second & I observed the rpm guage drop then it went right back on again as the cars ignition/spark revived.I replaced the TFI (ignition) module,Mass Air sensor,ignition coil & entire distributer assembly including the cam position/hall effect sensor.After all that the cars ignition died while driving and did not come back to life, tried to start it multiple times over a 2hour span on side of road,no luck, had to tow back to my house,it started when I tried the next morning,I just let it idle & it died after 15-30min span.I am now trying to locate a used PCM (powertrain control module) I wrote down the numbers on it and will try ebay. I can update you when I try the PCM swap, Tom.
belt
A 1999 Chevy Express 3500 van that shuts off when it warms up can have a bad fuel pump. It can also be caused by the distributor cap getting worn out.
Make sure you are not using a heavy oil in that car the oil light will stay on and the car wont register you have oil in it till it warms up and that is bad when the oil sending unit isn't getting oil to your lifters and pistons.
Wait until it warms up and melts
It will until the coolant warms up.
In a mercury thermometer, the level of mercury falls as the temperature of the air around it cools.A mercury thermometer has a bulb of mercury at the bottom and a thin tube above it with markings in Celsius degrees or Fahrenheit degrees. When the temperature warms, the mercury expands and rises up the tube. When the temperature cools, the mercury contracts and shrinks back toward the bulb at the bottom.
In a fluorescent light bulb there is usually a drop of mercury. That mercury vaporizes as the bulb warms up and it becomes gaseous, enhancing the electron interaction through the bulb, making it brighter.
Often a knock when cold is caused by piston slap, which is pistons rocking in the cylinders until they expand in size when the engine warms up.
its prob the thermostat i had the same problem with my uncles
replace your mapp sensor
this is caused from piston to cyl wall clearance when engine warms up the pistons exspand and the noise is less. DON'T WORRY ABOUT IT
Possible dirty fuel injectors or TPS sensor.