There could be several possible causes, so the issue should be checked out by someone who knows what s/he is doing. Onepossible cause could be related to the primary/high idle speed settings. Most vehicles are programmed to hold the fuel system idle speed setting at a slightly higher RPM[revolutions per second] when the engine is first started, to prevent rough idle, or a "cold stall," and some also have a choke, and/or other method of providing a "richer" mixtureduring this time. This rich, high idle settting provides resistance to stalling until the combustion chamber becomes warm enough for the engine to idle smoothly, which for most well tuned engines is just a few seconds. After this time, the idle setting should return to the lower, normal [warm engine] idle speed setting. An alternator must turn at a certain minimum RPM to generate enough output to charge the battery, and to prevent the warning [idiot] light from turning on. IF the normal idle speed setting is too low when your engine returns to the "normal" idle speed, then the idle RPM may be too low to cause the idiot light to turn off. Again, there are several possible causes, so have your entire charging system checked out by someone who knows what they are doing. Most mainstream auto parts chain stores [for example, Advance, Autozone, O'Rielly] have the diagonostic/testing equipment to test charging systems, and they do it for FREE.
The Alternator is not putting out enough voltage. If you recently replaced the alternator with a "new" remanufactured alternator that one could be bad to your truck somewhere to get it tested.
A remanufactured engine for your vehicle would not come with an AC compressor. Your original AC compressor would be reused or replaced with a new or remanufactured compressor if needed.
Remanufactured isn't as thorough as it sounds. In an alternator for instance the replace only the parts they feel are worn. So they might replace the bearings and the diodes - but will leave the body of it, and often other parts behind. So you can see, if the person making the judgment call on what needs to be replaced is competent the remanufactured part should function just fine. Now if it was rebuilt poorly - forget about it. I replaced an orignal alternator with a rebuilt one and went through 2 of em that were broken out of the box.
use a breaker bar to release pressure on automatic belt tensioner
No, the battery may be defective and the alternator may be just fine or vice versa. Saying that if the alternator was overcharging the battery it may very well have destroyed a good battery. Just have the battery checked at any auto parts store.
The regulator is in the engine computer not the alternator.
Alternator or serpentine belt (depending on what kind of car it is) is loose or frayed and should be tightened or replaced, most 2007's should have an automatic tensioner so it probably needs to be replaced.
Was the proper amount fo oil installed in the compressor and accumulator when they were replaced? That is the reason ,I, as a repair shop owner will NOT use a remanufactured compressor.
The voltage regulator (which is inside the alternator) on 97 rodeo's are controlled via the PCM/ECM (Power Control Module/Engine Control Module). A remanufactured alternator for the 97 Rodeo as well as the 97 Passport (Honda), usually will fhow failure while tested in car. On the bench test, however, the alternator tests normal. Aside of the normal problems to be ruled out, ie; alternator belt tension, check for loose connections within and around the alternator, try an original factory alternator. Is this problem affecting your blower motor?
The computer only resets when the battery is removed. The alternator just charges the battery, so if the battery is left connected when the alternator is replaced, the computer should not reset.
Its a used gun which has been either cleaned or parts replaced in order to make it fit for resale.
I replaced an alternator on a 2002 Nissan Altima but the drive belt is now too loose even with it having an automatic belt tensioner