Find a volt meter, check the battery voltage with the engine stopped, it should be a around 12 V. Now start the engine and the voltage should be around 13.5 V. If the alternator isn't putting out about 13.5 (+/- .5 V) the replacment alternator could be bad or you might have a bad connection somewhere.
This is not a battery problem. Your charging system, the alternator, is not putting out enough juice to charge the battery until you reach 4000 rpm. Have the alternator and charging system checked.
The battery has a temperature sensor. If it was left unplugged, the battery light will still be on
Go to auto zone and have the alternator checked out. even a new one can be bad.
Is it new? if it is it's not the battery. If it's really old your battery most likely is leaking.
you may need to go to your local shop and if they are equiped with one get them to attach there scanner to the vehicle and clear the codes for you.
What is the chrage when the vehicle is on? It should be around 15-15.5v
The most probable cause is a bad connection somewhere in the alternator > battery circuit. Check if the alternator is operational. Clean all contacts with a steel brush.
It could be your alternator is going bad
means your battery isn't being charged by the alternator. What originally seemed like a flat battery being the problem, would more than likely be the alternator at fault, which will drain the battery, not keep it charging on the move, hence, battery light displayed on your dash. Before jumping to the spares shop, check all the connecting wiring between these components, in case of any loose connections
on my old 1.2 clio the battery light came on as there was fault with the alternator and it needed replacing. As far as i know the battery light comes on when the battery is not charging or there is a fault with the battery.
does the kia have a remote voltage regulator
something is draining the battery. a new battery will last a couple days if just starting the car. even if your alternator is bad.
The alternator may not be charging it enough. With the engine running at an idle check the voltage at the battery with a DC digital voltmeter. It should read from 13.5 to 15.5 Volts. Anymore, or any less, and the alternator is suspect. You might also have a defective battery.
The alternator doesn't care. It provides power no matter if the battery is good, weak, or not even there.
Could be an alternator issue.
Check fusable links
About 18 months ago I had replaced the alternator and battery; I bought the replacements at Auto-Zone and installed it myself. When it comes to my transportaion I always buy the best parts they have. The alternator was growling and the battery got so weak it wouldn't start the van anymore. I don't think the two problems were related at that time. About 3 months ago I was driving down the Interstate when my battery light came on. I pulled into a parking lot and turned off the van. When I started the van the light was off. When I got back on the Interstate the battery light came back on. I went to Auto-Zone; they checked the battery and said it was bad. They replaced the battery under the warranty, no charge. I drove three blocks and the battery light came on. I went home and pulled the alternator off and took it to Auto-Zone; they tested it and said it was bad so they replaced it under the warranty at no charge. I drove the van for about 2 months and the battery light came back on, now what? I turned the van off and then turned it back on; the battery light was off. I went to Auto-Zone and asked them about this and the guy says, is the light on now? Well no, it only comes on when I'm on the Interstate and not all the time. He said they couldn't test it until the light comes back on. When the light come on bring it to us so we can test it. Sure I'll do that. I leave, what am I an idiot, like I'm going to drive it back to Auto-Zone with the battery light on. I'd be lucky not to get stranded somewhere. *PUNCH LINE, SO, I then called the dealership and to make sure they have a "new" alternator not a rebuilt one even if it comes with a lifetime warranty. I replaced the alternator with the new one; it has a 1 year warranty and cost about $100 more than the Auto-Zone alternator but guess what? The battery light hasn't come on for the past 3 weeks. I took the alternator back and got my $200. I should note that since I had to loosen the serpentine belt every time I went ahead and replaced it at the same time. Also, it was only 18 months old from the same place.
The battery light isn't an indicator that the battery is always bad. What the light should really be is a picture of an alternator, but most people wouldn't recognize that. Have the alternator checked off the vehicle to make sure it is good, then have it checked on the vehicle, (many places like Auto Zone do this for free). If it's not charging on the vehicle, you could have an alternator fuse bad or your car might even have an inline fuse between the alternator and battery. Many Ford products have a large fusible link between the alternator and battery, and if it's bad, there is no power going to the battery from the alternator. Good Luck!!!!
You're right it could be a dead battery, the starter, the soleniod, or even the alternator. My guess try jumping the car or charge the battery.
Some new alternators will not charge unless the battery has a full charge already.
Sometimes even though the voltage at charging is good the battery or alternator could be low on charge or charging low for your vehicles specs.
battery fuse is burned out, its in the fuse box inside engine compartment.
bad alternatornot always.if its a bad battery and can't hold a charge the same thing will happen.I had a 99 s-10 that would occasionally die at the pump or even while driving, I had a new defective battery, replaced under warranty, no more problem.I would have the alternator checked out before replacing it if that is the problem. I had my replaced and it wasn't cheap...$630 to be exact. The new alternators run around $200 and most mechanics will change the serpentine belt when they replace the alternator so this MAY be an added expense.If the alt is working properly, you can remove one of the battery cables while the engine is running and it will continue to idle. If it dies then the alt needs to be replaced.
Then the alternator needs to be looked at asap But I even took the cable off alternator and car stayed on which meet alternator in good right? Edit: If you took the cable off the alternator, then you disconnected the alternator so you didn't test the alternator at all. As a quick test only, removing the positive battery cable at the battery and the engine stays running means the alternator is charging. Do not run the engine more than a few seconds like this, and even then a voltage spike can wipe out your car's electronics. Much better to get a charging system tester to check things or at least borrow a voltmeter.
Since you replaced the battery and alternator, you must have had a problem before. Did you run a voltmeter on the battery while the engine is running? Should have around 14 volts. If you are getting around 14 volts, you can assume that the lite might be faulty. If you are getting say, 12 to 13 volts, then the alternator might be faulty, yes even sometimes rebuilt ones. Check all the wires to make sure there is good contact, also if you still have the problem, then you might have a broken wire ( somewhere ). Good luck