Oldsmobile Delta 88

Why does the blower motor fail to shut off when car is off in a 1989 Delta 88?

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2009-01-27 21:59:44
2009-01-27 21:59:44

Your A/C power module is bad. It's located underneath the hood underneath the firewall.

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On the auto temp system that happens when the blower motor resistor fails. It is behind the glove box.

Ok..I figured it out. Turns out the rear defroster is the problem. When I unplugged it from the back windshield, blower/heater works great!! So...to all those out there..if your blower motor blows fuses...check the blower motor first...then the HVAC and heater fuses, then rear defroster if you have a cavalier!

Most likely the motor went bad. If you use it alot the brushes in side of the motor fail easy.check that first the blower is under the clove department boxlike. Take it out and have it checked by most any auto parts stores.If it is not the motor neck is to check the controls. Also I know it is funny but check the fuses.

The blower is mounted under the dashboard on the passenger side. The housing unbolts with four screws and the motor unplugs from the wiring harness on the left side of the motor housing. The blower is a large white plastic cylinder known as a centrifuge blower. These stock motors are known to fail intermittantly when one or more motor windings fail. This is evidenced by the motor not running occasionally after the car/truck is turned on. At highway speeds, with the airflow comming into the air system from the road, the motor may suddenly start working again. Any time the motor stops on the dead spot, the motor won't be able to start spinning. The airfow can "blow" the blower, turning it to a good part of the motor and the motor will continue to run until the motor stops on the bad spot again. Good luck proving there is a problem, if the motor isn't in the stopped condition when diagnosed for service. Without testing the many winding bundles for a short, there is rarely visible evidence of the failure.

Year make model aside, most have power going to motor and grounds are through the blower motor resistor, setting speeds by using different resistors on the board, or in the case of automatic climate control, a power resistor control board, usually located in the heater box near the blower motor, google or ebay for one for your vehicle, get a picture of it in your head and look around the blower motor. They have diodes in them that fail and you will lose all speeds and other times, one or two.

The blower motor is beginning to fail. Bearings, bushings, or brushes are probably worn.

You probably need a blower motor. Check the Hot electrical feed to the motor. If you have replaced the resistor block you know where the motor is located (just to the right) It is easy to replace and can be purchased everywhere, including a junk yard. Remember some Resistor Blocks fail because the motor is old and drawing to many amps.

RE-TYPE I would think that the blower motor is bad and the fuse is failing. Causing the entire electrical sys on the truck to fail and shut down. Hope this helps. To see... take out the blower fuse and put in a new one and turn it on. If it still does the same thing it could be bad wiring. hope this helps!

Open the glove box door and remove the glove box. You should now be able to look directly at the motor and the resistor. >In 1999, they changed from the coil type resister to a printed circuit board. The coil type is about 2 1/5" long by 1 1/2" wide with kid of a square 4 wire connector. > The 2000 printed circuit type is about 4" long by 1/2" wide with a 4 wire connector with all the wires in one row. It's right up against the fire wall and partially hidden by the carpet. It's there, you just have to look. The tube you see is a cooler tube for the blower motor. It takes air out of the plenum case and directs it though the tube and into the motor housing. > > By the way, if the resister has the internal fuse burned, you probably have a blower motor starting to fail and it's drawing too much current at times. It will get worse. > You need a blower motor from a 99-02 Villager/Quest. >In doing some research on my own problem, which is the same as yours, I came across an answer for both of us. From March 2006 there was an answer that said that the control module was bad. He said that this used to be called a resistor pack. It's located behind the glove box. He said you open the glove box compartment and make it swing all the way down by squeezing in on the sides. You'll see the module attached to plenum with two plugs connected. Unscrew the two screws to get the module out. New part number from dealer is 5179985AA. The original part number has been discontinued. He said (in 2006) that the dealer cost for the module was $56.00 and you can replace it yourself in about 10 minutes. Blower Motor Control - Manual Control System The position of the blower motor control knob determines the speed at which the blower motor (18527) operates. Each position of the blower motor control knob is detented for positive engagement. The blower motor control works in conjunction with the blower motor resistor to control the four-speed operation of the blower motor. The blower motor control switch can be replaced separately from the manual control assembly. Blower Motor Control - Electronic Control System The rotation of the blower motor control determines the speed of the blower motor. The blower motor control works in conjunction with the A/C blower motor speed control (19E624) to control the 12-speed operation of the blower motor. Blower Motor The blower motor (18527) is mounted within the A/C evaporator/blower motor assembly, and contains the following: blower motor and blower motor wheel (18504) blower motor resistor (with manual control option) A/C blower motor speed control (19E624) (with electronic control option) A/C air inlet door (19A813) A/C air inlet door actuator motor A/C evaporator core (19860) (if equipped) Blower Motor Resistor If you have EATC, Electronic Automatic Temperature Control for your heater/a/c system, you WON'T have a blower motor resister. Instead, you will have a blower motor speed controller in that location. If you have an electronic digital temp control system with a digital display. If so, you have a blower motor speed controller instead of a resister. The controller is a 3" x 3" box with fins on it for cooling. It is located under the dash by the blower motor, just to the left. It has a white aspirator hose routed over it. 2 screws and one connector. It is fairly expensive so be sure it is the bad part. I have one I salvaged a while ago for a spare just in case someone needed it. The aspirator hose takes air from the resister location and feeds it to the temp sensor that controls blower speed, etc. So, your problem could be the motor, the speed controller, the digital control head, the sensor, wiring etc.

Which motor? If you are talking about the main engine, it can go more than 400,000 miles if properly maintained. There is no reason to replace it unless it is having problems. If you are asking about the blower motor, it also has no specific replacement interval but could fail. Replace as needed.

It can be a number of things. First check the fuses then make sure the blower motor is operative. If all checks ok, take it to a garage.Let's not assume an a/c problem if the air is not blowing. This is usually due to a burnt out blower motor resistor. The various speeds of the blower are controlled by this resistor pack. It is cheap to replace and is usually located behind the heater/AC controls on the dash. This pack can fail in different ways to where some blower speed positions work and others don't. If there is no air blowing at all I would check it. Just ask for a blower motor resistor at a local parts store. They fail enough that its a stock item.Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/When_the_air_conditioner_is_on_in_a_1999_jeep_grand_cherokee_limited_why_does_air_not_blow#ixzz1NhcqvpsE

If it's a grinding or howling sound, the heater blower motor bearing has probably dried up and ready to fail.

I work for a GM dealership, and referring to this vehicle, that is most often the blower motor starting to fail. If the blower resistor failed, it would probably not blow at all at certain speeds.

Operation: The blower motor is responsible for driving the fan that blows air across the heater core. Advice: If the blower motor is not working, first you must determine if the blower motor is at fault or if the problem lies in the speed control circuit and/or wiring. One of the quickest ways (depending on accessibility) to test a blower motor, is to hot wire it. If you disconnect the wiring harness and apply battery voltage to the blower motor terminals and it does not spin, then you know that the motor is bad. If it spins, you know the problem is somewhere else in the system. Most blower motors will have two wires or terminals, a positive and a ground. Check the repair guide's wiring diagrams to determine which is which. If you do get it backwards, don't worry. Reverse polarity will only cause the motor to run backwards. For testing purposes, if the motor spins in either direction, the problem lies elsewhere. The one wire design gets it's ground through the blower motor mounting, so the single wire or terminal is your positive connection. Recommendations: Repair guides.I don't know but I am about to attempt it. I will post some advice and or pointers here after I have successfully completed the task. If you do not see anything here from me in a while, it means I was not successful. :-( Lets hope that is not the case! It is not hard to do, but you have to remove the glove compartment and nearby trim to get to it. Hayne's has a good description of the procedure in their Camry service book. Note that the blower itself is held in with Torx-head screws.I found that removing the passenger seat (which is not hard to do) makes the job a lot easier and reduces the total time to replace the blower. Otherwise, you have to work upside down and twist yourself around the seat.Did certain speeds on the blower fail before it stop working alltogether? If so, I'd wager it's the blower relay - which is an easier and less costly fix.

Either a broken wire - faulty switch - or bad ground. You're going to need a test light to find the fault here. Is there power to the hot side of the blower switch? Does power transfer to the cold side when the switch is turned on. Is power reaching the blower. Blowers rarely fail BUT it can happen.

Your blower motor is getting ready to fail, it is usually gradual. I have replaced 2 on my 200 Kia Sportage and in both cases the low sppeds failed first. This may also require the relay be replaced as when it finally fails it can take the relay out.

The blower motor resistor has failed on that circut. It control all speeds except 5. It is a matter of time before more fail. It is a simple replacement. It is located up under the dash (under that removable panel on the passenger side) If you drop the glove box down you can see the blower motor and then follow the wires to it. It is held in with two theaded nuts (8 mm maybe) and then the electrical clip to the blower. Simple fix and about a 35-40 dollar part from www.parts4chevys.com

Depends how long it ran for, but if it ran for 5 minutes or more, the engine will fail due to the aluminum piston melting/overheating and damaging the cylinder bore

NO!This is a great do-it-yourself repair!Other than some cars having a bit of trim piece over the passenger side, blower motors are just 3, maybe 4 small screws and 1 electrical connector.Sidebar: the blower resistor that provides the ability to have more than one blower speed, is just to the left of the blower. An even easier repair, and not uncommon to fail (blows on high speed only).See "Related Questions" below for more

yes it can because that means the chain/belt is not getting good grip so that means the motor would slip causeing it to fail

Fuse- Blower Motor- Wiring- Selector switch fail- i8f you still have heat to the heater core, if the heater core is cold, and the mottr is still hot... change the thermostat

The wall didn't fail it was torn down in 1989 when the communist government of the Soviet Union failed.

Without actually performing a failure analysis on the specific resistor, there is no way to know what caused the blower motor resistor to fail. However, there are two likely causes, design and/or implementation. First a little info on the setup. The blower motor is a brushed motor. One way to use the same motor and get different speeds is to vary the voltage to the motor. More voltage will give more speed, less voltage will give less speed. One way to "adjust" the voltage to the motor is to put a resistor in the power line to the motor. The resistor will "absorb" voltage and give off the absorbed voltage as heat. The Malibu uses 4 different resistors to create 5 total blower speeds. The 5th setting is with no resistor in line. As the resistor absorbs voltage and gives off heat, eventually the resistor will burn out and need to be replaced. There are many different quality levels of resistors. Some resistors are high quality and will last longer than the car will be used. Some resistors are low quality and will fail while the car is still in service. Engineering selected the particular resistor used in the resistor pack. Perhaps, if the resistor burned out, the design is at fault as the part wasn't selected correctly. Implementation could be how the part was installed, perhaps the solder joint (how the resistor is connected) failed as the solder wasn't flowed correctly. There is nothing you could have done as a consumer to increase or decrease the life of the resistor.

In order, the most common cause of failure on the blowers is failure of the brushes on the motor itself. The motor is completely open to the elements as air comes in (ie, no cabin filter) and can get water and rust. Check the fuses. If both have failed simultainiously, odds are that the left side one is dead and is causing the right one to fail as well (the left sends the signal to the right, the incoming air temperature sensor is in the left side one, making it the "primary" box). There are several relays in each blower box that can fail from water damage, and a capacitator in the bottom of the blowers that sometimes fails. The module in the center console rarely fails, but can fail to send signal to the "piano" computer (it looks like a grand piano, its the climate control computer) located on the left side of the box containing the evaporator and heater matrix. The connections on the piano computer can fail, and the computer itself can fail. Rarely as well, the feed wires at the fuse box can short and melt, causing a loss of power in the entire circuit.

A Ryobi leaf blower will fail to start if the spark plug is fouled or it has run out of fuel. Using the incorrectly mixed fuel will also prevent it from starting.


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