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The following description is for vehicles equipped with factory A/C. Procedure will be simillar for non A/C cars. The heater core on all 1977 through 1990 GM B-Bodies is located under the hood, NOT under the dash. It was not moved to the inside of the car until 1991. To remove the heater core you will need to remove the blower motor, the rear hood weather strip, the cowl screen, the passenger side washer nozzle and the wiring connections for the blower motor and the blower motor resistor. Once you have removed these items there will be approximately 10 7mm (or 1/4") coarse thread screws to remove and a few 10mm bolts. Some are on the outside of the heater box, some are inside the box. BE GENTLE WHEN TRYING TO PRY THE BOX OPEN!!! They will crack in a hurry of you are too rough. Once you have removed the box top, there will be a retaining clip holding the heater core down. It may have a ground strap connected. Be sure to reconnect this strap. It reduces alternator noise in the radio. If it is still intact, be gentle with the foam that is covering the tube opening. You might want to just replace it with a new piece. A piece of soft foam car wash sponge will work well. When you reinstall the cover, be sure to replace the weather strip adhesive. If you can't find the correct stuff red rtv silicone works well (in generous portions). If you don't seal the box, YOU WILL have a wet floor every time it rains. Once you have everything buttoned up, run the vehicle with the heat on full blast until it gets to operating temperature. Check your antifreeze level and fill as needed. Caution! Never open the radiator when the cap is under pressure. You can be seriously burned. This job should take a beginner about two careful hours. After you've done a few, you'll knock that time down to about 45 mins. Here's a helpful trick. Grab a 6-10" scrap of 1/2 inch copper pipe to slide into both heater hoses when you remove them from the heater core. Tighten the clamps down and you will save yourself a lot of mess and you won't have to replace nearly as much anti-freeze.

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This is usually a master cylinder problem. Get under the car and look for oily residue drip lines on the inside of the tires meaning a busted wheel cylinder. A leaking cyl drains the fluid out of the master and allows air to enter. If the master lost fluid and got air in it it may still be good but you have to do all the steps needed to restore it to service after you rebuild or replace the leaking wheel cyclinders.

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1999 is right under the fuel tank aft of a black box. Removing the old one is another issue... I am looking for the answer.

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You have to remove the steering wheel ,lockplate, turn signal assembly and you will get to four bolts that are loose. Go to your local auto patrs store and tell them you need the special tool (lockplate removal tool and steering wheel puller)for GM steering colums.

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obviously depends if its a 2 or 4 door....a 4 dr in top condition would probably go for $800-$1500

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Should be on the back of the cover.If sitting in drivers side take left hand toward the hood release and brake release area.Should be removeable panel,if lost got to junkyard to find replacement.

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Simple answer is count the bolts on the diff cover. Generally 7.5 rear ends are 10 bold and have somewhat square corners. While the 8.5 rear ends have 12 bolts and are round.

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the fuel filter is located on the drivers side near the back wheel on the bottom of the car in a bracket. hope that helps you.

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Reverse the procedure you will do to remove it.

Have the freon (if not empty) professionally removed by an AC serviceman. Then remove the drive belt. Then remove the freon line(s)and electrical connection from the compressor. Then unbolt and remove the compressor mounting from the engine.

htere is much more then just bolting a new compressor. first inspect old one is it full of metal shards? if so all that metal is circulated thru your system. lines must be flushed with a/c flush kit also receiver dryer has to be changed or you void compressor warranty, also a orafic/filter tube has to be changed. if you want the system to last more then 1 month take heed

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Hey Dawn==I don't know free but you can get an owners manual from MOTORLIT.COM GoodluckJoe == another thought== Library photostat copy from manual,go to junk yards,check glove compartments.

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First, disconnect the negative terminal at the battery and move it out of the way. Block the rear wheels and put the front of the car up on jack stands. Remove the plastic cover near the front of the engine bay. You should now be able to see the starter. It may be necessary to remove the plastic torque converter cover and force pry the tabs on the plastic torque converter splash shield to be able to get access to the two hidden starter mounting bolts - then remove the two bolts and remove the nuts holding on the two wires on the back. You may be able to do this before unbolting the starter but I found it easier to do second. With those connections removed, the starter will come out with some twisting to get it around the frame. Installation is the reverse. The Eighty Eight I worked on did not have any shims between the starter and transmission but if yours does, be sure to transfer them from the old starter to the new one before installation. Failure to do so could cause major problems.

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You have to remove the Vibration Damper first, then you will have clear access to the Crank sensor. Make sure when you reinstall it, the wires don't get caught in the Damper assembly and you have clearance where the sensor mounts. Easy fix.

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if you have forgotten the order of the wires, go to a dealer(buick,or gm)or perhaps the library to find the proper sparkplug wire diagram. if you havent misplaced the order you simply push the plug until it clicks

Also call your local parts store,tell them you need the firing order.Its best go in person as most times they have diagrams in books already.I always make a written diagram and mark the wires with tape and numbers.

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The large pin with head at the top of the latch, holds the spring; spring may require plliers closing it some to make it fit over the head; over half an inch across head. The hook end of the spring goes toward the front of the car, bottom of the pin, and goes around the outside of the arm atatched to and hanging below the same pin. The straight end of the spring is on top toward the pan head end of the pin, pointing toward the driver side and catches under a hooked piece of sheet metal. Rotate the arm that swings from the pin the spring is attach to check the movement.

Only one spring for latch and one large spring attached to hood.

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Emmissions problem. HAVE THE ENGINE CHECKED!

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My 85 did the same thing ,replace the heater core . john == another thought== Check first if fuse is blown,then pull fan blower motor,take and connect to proper power source and see if blower works,then check see if hoses are connected to heater core before removal,sometimes there is a valve to turn off flow to core.And sometimes during summer hose from pump to block to bypass heat.Then check make sure theromostat is correct,have seen these put in backwards.If all else fails before pulll core do a back flush,a lot of junk gets into core. ____________________________ Also, if your car has the auto climate controls, check the heat sink.

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I never saw this model but the transmission filter on every transmission I ever did see - was -inside the transmiision bottom cover.

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First depends Do you mean ignition as with a key or as most call key switch ignition,or do you mean the ignition swicth located on steering column. ==well== The key cylinder lock rotates in housing on column,unless of course yours is dash mounted which make things totally easier.Key cylinder is what the key goes into,when turned moves a rod that pushs ignition switch into play,then falls back into run .Both work with each other but when you just put ignition switch hard to judge which you are talking about.Have you gotten the new one yet,also are you replacing because you have lost the key.Those old key cylinders wore out rather easy,would suggest if have the time,to visit a junk yard or 2 see if you can find an old olds key that resembles your old one.But would help if I knew more of why your replacing,and where cylinder is located.

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133 oxygen sensor, 101 mass air flow circuit, 123 throttle position high input

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disconnect the battery, then the wires from the starter. Then remove the bolts holding the starter to the engine.

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No. My daughter has the same vehicle and for some reason, GM changed the models in 1993 to be unique to that car. The 1994 is different and the computer will not work, as well as some sensors, mounts, etc.

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Tha is not as much a repair as it is a rebuild job. The crankshaft is in the bottom of the engine and it's best to remove the engine for that kind of repair. Next then is buy a rebuilt or good used engine to put back in if you're going to keep it. Otherwise - go to the library and check out a motor manual and learn something about rebuilding engines.

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Bleed the same as any brake system. No difference than a non-abs system. Sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF.

Might want recheck that,Most times its LF,RF,LR,RR.Some vehicles such as Saab and other non American models use the RR,LR,RF,LF SEQUENCE.

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you can buy the book for that car at a auto parts store