are you sure it is transmission and not your diff both can do this which ever one it is tho needs to be rebuilt or replaced
Check your clutch fluid level or your automatic transmission fluid level.
Rolls freely in neutral? Bad transmission?
The first thing you have to check is your base/curb idle. It should be between 600 and 700 rpm in nuetral. If less than 550 rpm, may be too low to sustain idle speed in gear. Computer diagnostic may be required to determine if idle circut problem exists. If no idle circut problem exists, check for transmission torque converter lock-up problem. If converter in full lock-up engine stall will occur when put into gear. Transmission diagnostic will be required to determine this problem.
Have the transmission computer checked for codes. It will lock into 2nd gear when a malfunction is detected.
Idling too low or a bad lock-up torque converter solenoid.
That would be a problem with the solenoid for the lock up converter. Start with checking the fuses. If the fuses check okay the lock up solenoid or wiring circuit is probably bad. That solenoid is located inside the transmission and can be reached by dropping the trans pan.
The 1984 700R4 will interchange with a 1988 700R4. The lock-up harness would have to be modified, changed or have a hydraulic lock-up kit installed. An easy fix would be to put the harness and swithes from the 1988 transmission into the 1984 transmission. The 1984 transmission is a weaker design but a working transmission will get you going.
The D100 probably has the 3 speed standard transmission. If so, it doesn't use gear oil in the transmission. It uses Dextron II or III. The fill plug is found on the side of the transmission about half way up.
There is no such device as a torque convertor solenoid. There is a transmission control module. There can be any of 100 reasons why the car may stall when put into gear but I do not think it is a transmission problem. It sounds like an engine problem. There are torque converter control solenoids, and if stuck in the wrong position they can keep the lock up clutch engaged which can cause the engine to die when at a stop.
No, the fly wheel is different and so is the gear ratio and the mounts will not line up.
Does the torque converter lock? It should lock on both 3rd and 4th gear. How are the engine temperature and temp gauge? The 4T60-E requires decent temp information to run normally, othw it goes to "limp mode" and will not engage 4th nor lock. T
Do you mean the transmission to the engine? Match up the bolts which are used to mount the transmission to the rear of the engine. Find some which are slightly longer, and cut off the heads. Put those in place of the regular bolts to use for alignment. Make sure the transmission is in gear. Raise it up with a transmission jack, and get it aligned. As you push the transmission into place, the pilot bearing will rotate to align the transmission input shaft.
You have 1st, 2nd, and drive. You should have over drive built in with a lock up for the final drive. First, check the linkage and make sure the shifter at the transmission is good, or it it is electroinc have the transmission shop check it.
The purpose of the automatic transmission is that is shifts for you. You'll want to lock your transmission into your ideal gear for going up and down steep inclines to prevent it from downshifting, but, other than that, you typically let the computer do the shifting for you.
if you have an electrical plug and its a th350. you have a th350C or lock up. it is to control; the lock up soliniod
There's nothing turning within the transmission until the vehicle is put into motion or put into a gear.
The T-350 needs a stout, odd shaped conical shaped little spring in the 1-2 shift valve stack up to allow full manual control. No spring and the the tranny will lock up in manual low gear and the vehicle will not move.
If you mean the lock-up converter, Then yes it can and will stop the transmission from going into lock-up after the trans. has shifted it's self out.
for one do not put oil on your transmission it takes transmission fluid which is not just an oil lubricant look the specs up online and you'll be able to by it at autozone oh and don't let it go dry it'll lock up your transmission or ruin your gears.
I believe that your shudder problem may be a problem with your lock up torque convertor. When your transmission has shifted into final gear and is no longer under accelleration or deceleration your torque convertor should lock up. If the lock up is not being applied properly of your torque convertor is damaged you may experience a shudder during the lock up transition. You should be able to initiate lock up on and off by accelerating and coasting to see if this is when it occurs. I have put 45000km's on my '94 Transport since it was given to me because of this prob. If you can live with the annoyance it shoudn't damage anything else and you'll save some cash. Good Luck. ==Another Option == Twice I was told by a transmission mechanic that my shuddering was due to bad plug wires. He showed me this by power braking the car and having the engine get "rough" at certain RPMs. Changed the plugs and the wires, voila`, the back ones are a pain in the butt!
The vacuum connection for a 1980 Corvette lock-up transmission is on the passenger side of the engine compartment. It is below the air conditioning unit.
Torque converter lock-up solenoid is bad. Common problem with 1988 Beretta.
Low Fluid level. If the car has a three-speed automatic, the torque converter clutch solenoid is locked up. Unplug it from the transmission, and see if it still dies when put in gear.
I read in another forum that it might be the brakelight switch that is making the shift lock, lock up.
Worn out gears in a transmission will cause the transmission to slip out of gear. The gear may be war only on one side, causing the transmission to work properly. At times.