They could be burned out.
The headlight switch that has the dash light dimmer knob. The dimmer switch went bad and you can only fix it by getting another headlight switch on most cars. Some though have a separate dimmer switch.
the dimmer should have a rating on it in Watts. dimmers are not suitable for low energy lamps though
possibly a bad headlight switch, or dimmer switch. Some later model buicks have a lighting module under the dash about in the middle. I think yours is too old to have that though.
Check first and make sure that someone didn't mess with your dimmer switch. If it's okay, you probably have a bad ground in the instrument cluster.
make sure your dimmer switch isn't turned all the way down. Then check the fuses next.
The brake lights are a separate circuit from the other lights. Check the fuses and bulbs. If fuses and bulbs are okay I would suspect the brake light switch is at fault.
check the brake light switch above the brake pedal
Though this theoretically could work on a very few power tools, it is NOT a good idea and most likely doing it will only wreck the tool (or the dimmer switch). And why would you want to lower the voltage anyway?
I'm going to assume that the switch that's getting warm is the dimmer. Even when a dimmer is working correctly it gets warm and that's just the electronic parts of it. The face of a dimmer is actually a heat sink to help remove excess heat. If you swap out the dimmer you will likely find your problem is resolved. Remember to de-energize the circuit by turning off the breaker before working on it. If in any doubt, consult a qualified electrician. Andy Be aware that a dimmer for lights does NOT work for fans (though it may sometimes appear to work, you can end up with noise, problems such as the light attached to the fan not working, the dimmer getting overheated, etc). So even though it might seem to work at first, you'll have problems, and it's against code to put the wrong kind of dimmer there. You can purchase a dimmer which is rated for ceiling fans at Home Depot or Lowes, but they are more expensive than light switch dimmers. Of course, if there is a single on/off switch at the wall which controls the fan and its light, then you might be better off buying a remote control unit to install in the fan - it will allow you to dim the fan and light separately (and safely). Or purchase a new fan with a remote... ceiling fans are cheap enough now that if yours is old enough, it might be a nice time for an update.
i know im a girl and im only 14 and all but there is a light level sensor built into the LCM which will make the dashboard lights dimmer in high quantities of light and make them brighter in the dark. there is a little dot just above your light switch knob which is the sensor. i don't actually think you can adjust them though
The headlight switch may be bad. Try replacing. Its the Headlight switch. The switch has a built in Circuit Breaker that self resets. It has become bad and will eventually give it up.
You probably hit the parking light switch inadvertantly! The switch is on top of the steering wheel column and is a rocker switch. I think that pushing the switch away from you will turn the parking lights on and pushing it towards you will turn them off - it may be vice versa though! Parking lights are for use in some countries when you are parked on an unlit street so that other drivers can see your car.
Yes, but it must then be clearly labeled that it is only for devices that are dimmer compatible (no motors, no fans, no computers, no nondimable lights, etc.) This might reasonably be done for an outlet that is dedicated to a single lamp.However some electrical codes may prohibit this (even though it can be done) for safety.
Not very specific on the question. I can go with my experience, though.My 2000 T&C would turn off my headlights as I was driving. No special warning, and it did it randomly. Even when I had the fog lights on, it turned off my headlights. A new headlight switch fixed it right up! Make sure you get the right switch! The non-fog light switch and the switch with fog lights have very different electrical connectors!
You probably have a faulty headlight switch. Replace it and that should fix it. Been there, done that.
In a 1996 Grand Am, the dome light is turned on by using the roller on the left side of the steering wheel that controls the dash lights. Turn the roller all the way to the right.---- 1999 - 2005 Models (SE & GT): # Use slider switch located on the dome light. It should have "off", "auto", and "on" positions. Do not leave in "on" position though, as there is no auto-shutoff for for the "on" position and it will drain your battery.# Turn on all interior lights by maximizing dash dimmer setting. It is located left of the steering wheel and adjacent to the (optional?) fog light switch. There should be one click at max brightness which will turn on all interior lights. # Alternately, there are two convenience/map lights located on the bottom of the center mirror which may be useful.
The fuse is located just below and to the left of the steering wheel, in the fuse panel - its the fuse labeled 'gauges' and is 15AMP (blue). I suspect you have the problem as me though and if this is the case replacing the fuse won't help (but try it, doesn't hurt). The dash lights are powered through the light switch (left switch on steering column). The dimmer switch (left of steering wheel on dash) is on the ground (green wire) side of the dash light circuit. I've been searching around and it seems to me our problem is in the light switch, check out this thread: http://en.allexperts.com/q/Toyota-Repair-832/lost-dashboard-illumination.htm. Seems this switch eventually fails in tercels of our vintage. Good luck.
There may be a cut in the wire(s). You will need a Digital Volt Meter to test the wire(s) at your brake light. There is a switch that is actuated when you apply pressure to the brake pedal. If the switch is malfunctioning your lights won't come on.
It is because the brake light switch under the brake pedal is faulty. usually replacing this will solve the problem. it is designed in such a way that when the brake pedal is depressed the switch completes a circuit and the lights come on. the fault occurs when the switch closes the circuit even though the pedal is not depressed. hope this helps.
Most dimmer switches are nothing more than a large in-line variable resistor. Turning the switch down only increases the resistance on the line and there by reduces the volage to the load, which in this case is the light. If the RESISTOR is turned down all the way, even though the light may appear to be completely off, there may still be a small amount of voltage at the load (light) resulting in a resistor that is turning whatever is left into heat. If this is the type of dimmer, check the switch to see if there is an "off" position that completely cuts the circuit. The other type of dimmer switch is far more complex and is used for motors, florescent ligting and other equipment that will not function on reduced voltage. These types of dimmers use a concept called "pulse width modultion" to supply full voltage to a device but the voltage is sent in pulses that correspond to the amount of current used to provide the necessary intensity of the load. If it's a florescent light, the pulse width would be adjusted to provide the light that you want. If it's a motor, the pulse width would control the speed of the motor. These types of dimmers may use a small current to continue operation of the switch even though nothing is really on. In my opinion, this type of dimmer is not designed well, but then, I didn't have to build it. So in general, the answer is "No, a dimmer switch shouldn't be warm if it has been off for a long time." After the switch has been turned off it should cool to room temp after a while.
Try pushing the hazard light switch on steering column repeatedly. I had a strange problem with my hazards once and this fixed it for now. I think my problem was the signals not working though....
The switch that turns the headlights on. PULL it back once for front fogs(if fitted) and twice for rear fogs. This will only work with the headlights on though(sidelights or dipped) OK
Yes, sodium lights repel gnats.Specifically, the term gnat can refer to biting midges, fruit fly-like flies, gnats and midges. All of the above-mentioned insects favor bright lights. Not one of them likes the dimmer, more orange light of sodium bulbs. But if their favorite food source of decaying material or waterlogged mulch is abundantly around, then dimmer lights may discourage some but not all feeding-minded gnats.
No, many electricians wire devices in "hot" but it states in the dimmer installation sheet that the dimmer should be in the switched off position. That does not mean to the lowest dim setting but to the off indent. If the dimmer was on and you shorted wires out when you were installing a light fixture then that is different again. The high current created by the short circuit would have traveled through the dimmer and that will give good cause for the dimmer switch to not work. <<>> Only if you are completing the circuit without any resistance, and that's if the current flowing through whatever you are wiring goes directly through the dimmer and it exceed it's tolerance. In general though, you should not wire anything when there is still current lest you become it's path of least resistance.
HeyKris==It is probably the switch located on the brake pedal. GoodluckJoe I am having the same problem but shouldn't both the top light and the break lights be activated from the same switch? Is there anything else it could be?