The headlight switch that has the dash light dimmer knob. The dimmer switch went bad and you can only fix it by getting another headlight switch on most cars. Some though have a separate dimmer switch.
my 95 neon did the same thing check the ground wires in the trunk there are in the corners of the trunk next to the tail lights take them lose and sand the contact area.s that should fix your problem
When you remove the fuse panel cover on the inside there should be a "map" of all the fuses. If that is not there or not visible then pull the fuses until you find one tha has failed. I think it is a low amperege type like 7.5, 10 or 15 Amp max. But before you go to that trouble, check to see if your tail lights work (not to be confused with brake lights). If not, check the fuse box under the hood next to the battery. There's a 10A fuse that controls brake lights, lights on the instrument panel, and the "beep beep" warning signal that you get if you turn off the motor and open the door with the headlights still on. The fuse box inside, under the dash, should have a fuse puller tool and replacement fuses, with a 10A fuse you can use to make this fix. (This paragraph was correct for my 1998 Sentra and I'm betting it is still correct for later models.)
1)Fuse blown (Consult owner's manual) 2)open circuit (broken wire somewhere within the entire path, from tail light to battery!) 3)Faulty Lamp Failure Sensor (e.g., the little yellow box behind the carpeting in the driver's side of the trunk of my 1991 Camry) It's tough...just repaired the box (fixed brake lights); everything was fine, until the next day...now the taillights, dash lights are out, as the fuse keeps blowing. MAY be related, but everything worked fine (after the first repair) for 24 hours... Electrical stuff CAN be tough...if you're lucky, it may be simple. Good luck. FACE
There are three locations for fuse boxes in a 1992 Buick Park Avenue. One fuse panel location in under dash next to steering column. The backside of panel door has a diagram for each fuse location and is numbered accordingly. The second fuse box is located on passenger side under glove box. The kick panel under dash needs to be removed to expose fuses and relays. A diagram is located on the panel that has to be removed. The third location is under the hood on the passenger side of the firewall. Typically your entire major component fuses and relays.
Most owner's manual list the fuse diagram. My 2001 Altima has two fuse boxes under the hood and one under the dash driver's side. The covers of the boxes have the fuse size and general system it controls printed on it. There is one box passenger side up front near radiator overflow tank and the other fuse box is next to the battery. There are not that many fuses under the hood. Most of the smaller fuses are in the fuse box under the dash. For these it will help to use a fuse puller or a needle nose plier. Use an inexpensive puller with a fuse tester built it. Easy to use. Recommend disconnecting negative terminal from battery before touching fuses. After reconnecting battery cable, the check engine light may come on but not always. Don't worry. Just drive as normal and the computer will eventually reset itself in a few days.
next at the battey 7.5 apm
Fuse issue, on the MK4 look on the driver side next to the door, find the blown fuse and replace,
All fuses are in the under hood fuse box, next to the battery. The lid lists the fuse locations.
Please check the fuse first. If the fuse is good then the rheostat switch is the next component to test. The rheostat is the dimmer switch you use to control the brightness of the dash lights. It will probably be part of the headlight switch. Best of luck.
The fuse box is normally under dash on the drivers side, may have to get down low next to the drivers side door and look up and to the left. There is also a fuse box under hood on drivers side, but that has nothing to do with lights, etc.
fuse box under the dash drivers side, the small relay next to the turn signal flasher..
It's most definitely a fuse in the fuse box on the drivers side next to the pedals. Pretty sure it's like a 15 or something fuse.
LOOK WAY UP UNDER THE DASH NEXT TO THE STEERING COLUMN
There is another fuse box under the hood and next to the battery. This fuse controls the horn, dashboard lights, and the tail lights.
There should be a roll switch right next to your light switch on your dash to dim the lights with.
There isn't a dash fuse box. All fuses are under the hood next to the battery.
Having this same problem (same car, same year), and I've seen other forums asking the same question but without a final answer or solution. No doubt it is a common problem. To troubleshoot I: * replaced my bulbs with new and correct bulbs * checked as much wiring as I could see * removed my dash light dimmer (rheostat) from the system * removed the headlight switch from the system * removed the main light relay from the system * removed the blown bulb relay from the system * removed the dash lights from the system * checked the bulbs in the dash and it still blew the fuse. I also went to the fuse box and found three wires going into that fuse. There is a * wire for the front right running light * wire for the rear right running lights * wire for the dash lights When I remove the dash light wire, the fuse doesn't blow. This could be because # The dash light wires between the fuse box and the disconnected dash lights are shorting out # One of the other two wires leads to a small short that in combination with the draw from the dash lights blows the fuse The next step would be to disconnect the other wires and reconnect the dash lights to see if they alone blow the fuse. If they do, then the problem is between the fusebox and the dash lights. Very frustrating. Any help for those of us struggling with this would be very helpful. Is this a common problem? Is there a way to isolate this further? Is there anything in the dash light system that could do this beyond a rubbing wire? Have I effectively narrowed it down to that as a problem? Help!!! Thanks.