Because it would be quite expensive to treat all the volume of sewerage and storm water in a system.
By having a storm sewer and a sanitary sewer it puts less stress on the treatment plant
drain or gully may have another inlet coming into same pipe via a junction under the floor
In the end, yes. ANS 2 - By "the toilet pipe" -I'm going to assume you mean the drain . -The toilet drain in a small house is generally the main drain. All other drains are connected to it.
It needs aleast a 2 in. pipe. tubs are 1.5 in.
Uh huh
When there is a backup in the various city or your local drainage system the lowest point in your home may have the drains fill up or overflow. If you live in an area that has this problem on a regular basis there is a temporary fix, that can help you avoid a partially flooded basement. If your home has one floor drain, try this: Uncover the drain and check the size of the pipe... get a length of PVC pipe with the outside dimension the same as the inside dimension of the floor drain pipe. (the new PVC pipe should be 3 feet or more) place this pipe in the drain, standing vertically, use vinyl tape to taper the bottom of the new pipe to assure that the pipe is tight in the floor drain. Doing this may seem a little strange but this drain modification will now allow you an additional few feet of insulation between a dry vs. a wet basement. If you have more than one drain, then do the same to both.
Washing machines pump out a large volume of water and todays standards require a 2 inch drain pipe. Bathtubs generally have a one and one half inch drain. So bathtub drain will have to be increased to 2", including trap and 18 to 24" standpipe to operate correctly, and connected to the closest existing 2" line or larger line. Same 11/2 venting can be used.
During prper winterization, the water in the bottom drain is usually "blown" out with compressed air. How this happens, is that a pipe with a schrader valve (the same type of valve on a ture intertube) is inserted into a pipe that is threaded into the pipe below the skimmer (with the leaf basket removed) An air compressor is then used to fill the tube with air. The air forces the water out of the entire pipe. Bubbles will come up from the drain when all of the water has been blown out of the pipe. The pressure of the air being in the pipe keeps the water from flowing back into the pipe. Hope this answers your question.
First thing you should do is call a plumber. Drain lines are not supposed to leak. Your drain line is clogged and needs to be snaked out and the leaking pipe repaired.
The same as any other PVC drain. Trailers have a plastic or fabric covering underneath. Cut this at the drain and repair the pipe. Duct tape the cut in the fabric or staple a section of cheap blue tarp over that section.
If the floor is wood, cut a notch in the floor and joist to run the drain to the other end and connect it to the existing pipe. The supply lines are usually on the same end as the drain so this will be a little odd. They could be routed around the tub below the edge to get them to the other end. Another thing to consider, you will have to be able to reach the end of the tub once it is in place to connect the drain. Is there access through a hole or is the underneath open to a basement or crawlspace? If the left hand side is an exterior wall or the bath is on the second floor, there is no easy way to access it.
Water and Electricity can sort of be thought about in the same way. Water can when utilizing high pressure do many things. We also experience this High pressure with only one pipe as the supply. Electricity works approximately the same way with one very important exception. It does not run out into the air like water can do. You can not fill up a bathtub of electricity for later use. Electricity is high pressure of electrons in a wire that conduct electrons. In order to get rid of the "used" electrons, you need a second wire as the drain. One wire works as the supply and the other as the drain. One does not work without the other. With the analogy to water, a water pipe leaves quite a mess without the drain too :-)
The only hose connections at the firewall that contain coolant are the connections at the heater core. You either have a loose clamp or the compression fitting between the steel and metal parts of the hose itself are leaking. If there is coolant leaking out of an drain at the bottom area of the firewall, there's a good chance that it's leaking from the heater core itself, through a drain pipe which is the same drain pipe that removes water condensation from the air conditioning.