2 possibilities.
First, if the previous paint wasn't rubber (ie epoxy), it will peel. ...or if this was the first coat, was it primed?
Second and more likely, poor surface prep. Insufficient dry times before and after paint, acid residual, improper paint mixing, etc.
Absolutely not and you should use the same manufacturer of the paint you have on there also. Sorry you can only use a chlorinated rubber base paint on a rubber base paint. If you try to paint with the chlorinated rubber base on top of a synthetic rubber base paint it will probably peel like a bad sunburn.
You can but it wont last, you will have a bigger peeling mess.
PPG markets an architectural coating called "Break-Through" that will adhere to rubber and flex without cracking. In addition, there are automotive paints that can be used on rubber, however, they are more expensive.
What a nightmare you just encountered, huh? The latex is going to want to peel, and keep peeling. Short of sanding all the paint off that you just applied you can apply a coat of shellac (primer/sealer by Binzer) directly over the peeling latex paint. It dries very quickly and has an awful smell but it will take care of the peeling paint problem. I bet you will never paint over oil again.
For wet paint, the solvent carrier (typically mostly xylene) is extremely flammable. For dry paint, most of the coating is usually non-flammable pigment in a chlorinated binder, so it is not very flammable. The coating usually softens in extreme heat, however.
Absolutely not and you should use the same manufacturer of the paint you have on there also. Sorry you can only use a chlorinated rubber base paint on a rubber base paint. If you try to paint with the chlorinated rubber base on top of a synthetic rubber base paint it will probably peel like a bad sunburn.
either epoxy or chlorinated rubber
Most likely has to do with the VOC levels (amount of volatile solvents in a gallon of paint). Last check is that New York City limits VOC's to 340 grams per liter (around 2.8 lbs per gallon of VOC). Typical chlorinated rubbers are approx 4 to 5 lbs per gallon. In short, too much solvent in the can - solvents evaporate out of the applied film and react with sunlight to form ozone in the lower atmosphere - smog. Chlorinated rubber pool paint IS NOT and HAS NEVER been banned in NY or any other state! The amount of solvents in ALL pool paints have been limited to 340 g/l in NY and many other states. Certain pool paint manufacturers have spread disinformation about chlorinated rubber pool paint being banned, perhaps because they stopped manufacturing it and brought new products to market. Many of the "paint over rubber base" products have failed and those manufacturers are now back into selling rubber base pool paint. Check out www.sausea.com for a company that never abandoned rubber and brought it into VOC compliance as ECO-CHOICE Premium Rubber Pool Coating.
Removing previously applied paint tops gloss paint from peeling of the undercoat on staircase.
You can but it wont last, you will have a bigger peeling mess.
PPG markets an architectural coating called "Break-Through" that will adhere to rubber and flex without cracking. In addition, there are automotive paints that can be used on rubber, however, they are more expensive.
In order to stop the paint from peeling on your Chevy, you will have to sand down the affected area, and then paint over it with a new coat. If your 1982 Chevy pickup is peeling off, then it has been repainted. There is nothing you can do except to wax it.
yep.
scrape the peely paint off and then re-paint it
Scrub it all off, sand the surface and paint a primer first.
Physical
If you want it to stop peeling the only sure way is to strip the peeling panels to bare metal.