The Refrigerator evaporator coil has many forces working upon it from a wide swing of temperature and pressure and vibrations that is caused. Then there is the ice that builds up on the coil between defrost cycles that produces some of the forces that are on the coil. To that add electrolyses of the different metal that are uses in the coil and the corrosive chemical bath that comes from the area and products being refrigerated. The refrigerator evaporator coil have a lot of silver soldered 90 degree union fitting that the forces work on. Than there is the design of the standard refrigerator evaporator coil. The coil sets in the drain pan and drips condensate into the drain pan. A long with the condensate comes some of the dirt and lent that collects on the evaporator fins and if not maintained it will plug the fins and than plug the drain pan. And fill the coil with condensate then more ice. When you really look at the refrigeration evaporation coil you wonder why they don't leak more. I am not even going to talk about the guys that defrost refrigeration evaporator coils with a ice picks.
Any refrigeration or AC evaporator coil has a tendency to ice up when they get cold. Water condenses on the coil when the air is cooled. That water can then freeze. If an AC system is operating correctly it will cool the air and eventually when room temperature reaches the set point the AC unit will turn off, this give any ice that has formed on the evaporator coil a chance to melt. If the system is low on charge, the room may never reach the set temperature and therefore will not shut off. The ice will continue to build on the evaporator coil until it is completely iced over. A dirty evaporator coil can cause this as well, so change your filters often. Another possibility is the ac system has to be matched to room or house size. Too small and too large a system will both cause you problems.
With no air flow through the coil the ability to cool a house will be diminished severely. The coil will also over cool itself and eventually ice up and stop all air flow. This could result in overheating the blower motor as it cannot move air through a blocked coil.
Remember that suction refers to the low side, and is showing you what is happening with in the evaporator coil. Higher than normal pressures indicate the refrigerant is not transferring its heat into the air passing through evaporator coil. You need to assess the air flow, are the filter or coil dirty, or is the ducting blocked, fan speed set up correctly. Try cleaning coils and a light weight filter, then recheck pressures.
There is ice on the dehumidifier coil because it is low on freon. When there is not enough freon in a refrigeration system the inlet pressure to the compressor is lower than design due to lack of gas. Because it is at a low pressure the freon is very cold. This causes freeze-up. If You were to add freon to the running dehumidifier you would see the cold coil thaw, first at the end closest to the compressor suction and then work toward the other end of the coil. When the thaw reaches the other end of the cold coil it has enough freon and no more need be added. Tim Koller
The Refrigerator evaporator coil has many forces working upon it from a wide swing of temperature and pressure and vibrations that is caused. Then there is the ice that builds up on the coil between defrost cycles that produces some of the forces that are on the coil. To that add electrolyses of the different metal that are uses in the coil and the corrosive chemical bath that comes from the area and products being refrigerated. The refrigerator evaporator coil have a lot of silver soldered 90 degree union fitting that the forces work on. Than there is the design of the standard refrigerator evaporator coil. The coil sets in the drain pan and drips condensate into the drain pan. A long with the condensate comes some of the dirt and lent that collects on the evaporator fins and if not maintained it will plug the fins and than plug the drain pan. And fill the coil with condensate then more ice. When you really look at the refrigeration evaporation coil you wonder why they don't leak more. I am not even going to talk about the guys that defrost refrigeration evaporator coils with a ice picks.
Any refrigeration or AC evaporator coil has a tendency to ice up when they get cold. Water condenses on the coil when the air is cooled. That water can then freeze. If an AC system is operating correctly it will cool the air and eventually when room temperature reaches the set point the AC unit will turn off, this give any ice that has formed on the evaporator coil a chance to melt. If the system is low on charge, the room may never reach the set temperature and therefore will not shut off. The ice will continue to build on the evaporator coil until it is completely iced over. A dirty evaporator coil can cause this as well, so change your filters often. Another possibility is the ac system has to be matched to room or house size. Too small and too large a system will both cause you problems.
There are several reasons why a evaporator coil freezes. They include a dirty air filter, a malfunctioning fan, or clogged air returns.
With no air flow through the coil the ability to cool a house will be diminished severely. The coil will also over cool itself and eventually ice up and stop all air flow. This could result in overheating the blower motor as it cannot move air through a blocked coil.
The evaporator coil is probably freezing up which will restrict airflow.
Its due to the refrigerant dropping to a temperature that's below freezing(32 degrees at sea level) and the humidity(water) that forms on the suction line freezes caused by several things: shortage of freon, dirty evaporator coil, oversized unit, and dirty filter.
Two And A Half Tons OR 30,000 BTU's
It meters liquid high pressure refrigerant into the evaporator which is located in the heater housing under the dash. It controls refrigerant flow to keep the evaporator coil from icing up.
It may be over-charged (too much refrigerant) or not enough air across the evaporator coil. Actually it could be under charged. The pressure is lower during the night since it is cooler outside. If the pressure drops on the low side below 56-58 pounds correlates with lower than 32 degrees making the humidity in the air freeze to the coil (evaporator). In all likelyhood you need a slight charge of R22. If the filter is dirty, again it could be like the 1st answer not enough air over the coil. But I will stick with my theory.
To clean your indoor evaporator coil, the contractor will most likely clear larger debris by hand or with a special brush, then follow up by applying a self-rinsing evaporator oil product. This product will clean the coil effectively and rinse off during the cooling process when the system is turned on.
No,The differences are to great.You will end up with more problems than you want.10 seer condensor cant keep up with 13 seer evap.Suction pressure would be to much,and you never would acheive cooling temps.
yes it can. you can you can only downsize a coil by .5 tons or up .the flowrator piston have to be be changed according the the condenser size don't ever try to go more than1/2 ton it would damage the system.