There will be no 4WD function of any sort with the front shaft removed. The vehicle will drive through the rear axle only and will throw a fault code if "4WD AUTO" is selected. Obviously, there would be no way power could be transmitted to the front axle.
The question may come from the old 4WD trick to service one drive (propeller)shaft at a time, If the rear shaft was removed, the truck could be driven as a front wheel drive vehicle by placing the ring in 4WD. If the truck was equipped with "full Time 4WD", the rig would have to be placed in 4wd "LOCK" to power the front or rear diff--otherwise the center differental would be "unloaded" and would just spin free not moving the truck.
"4WD auto" engages the front differental dog clutch but does not engage the transfer case. The ABS sensor will attempt to engage the transfer case of it notes more than 100 rpm difference between the front and rear wheels, indicating the front is not moving and rear wheels are slipping. This is an idiot's feature. The attempt to engage the transfer under load often results in broken parts. The PCM (computer) attempts to mitigate this by retarding gas and spark but parts are still damaged. DO not use '4WD auto"--it is for driver's so inexperienced that should remain in the garage in bad weather.
And yes, you can drive your Yukon with the rear shaft missing. Just place it in regular 4WD high and motor on until your rear shaft as been serviced and is ready for reinstall. There is more but I hope this helps.
1) Drive-shafts are used on FWD but Prop-Shafts are used on RWD or 4WD. 2)A Drive-Shaft has final drive via a CV joint but a Prop-Shaft has final drive via a Differential. 3)A Drive-Shaft is smaller, lighter and saves space by not having a transmition tunnel.
1. Driveshafts are smaller and lighter. 2. A prop shafts final drive goes through a dfferential, whereas a driveshaft uses a cv joint.
The Prop shaft (front drive shaft) has a ball type cv joint that sits in bearings that connects to the transfer case. This is most likely shot and you need a front prop shaft (front drive shaft) complete with rubber boot and differential cv universal joint.
The prop, or drive shaft works by transferring power(through rotary motion) from the engine to the rear axle - assuming it's a front-engine, rear-drive car.
This depends entirely on what make model and year the machine is as well as why it is being driven. It is not safe to use it as a loader with the prop shaft missing, but it might be if it is just being moved.
The easy way is to disconnect the front or rear prop shaft.
A typical drive train (rear wheel drive) : Crankshaft > clutch > gearbox > prop shaft > differential > drive wheels.
The front drive shaft or 'prop shaft' costs around 400.00 and a 50.00 core charge. That is the part itself, add a good 70 to 100 for service charge if you take it to a mechanic. The main shaft is probably a few hundred but that's a guess.
Unbolt the prop shaft.
The turbo prop core is very much like a turbojet engine. The difference is that rather then expanding all the hot exhaust gases through a nozzle to produce thrust these gasses are used to turn a turbine. this turbine is connected to a drive shaft which is in turn connected to a gear box. A shaft coming from the gear box is finally connected to a propeller which produces most of the thrust. The exhaust velocity of a turboprop is does little to aid thrust as most of the energy of the core exhaust has gone into turning the drive shaft. The turbo shaft engine is a variation of the turbo prop. In this system the gear box is some other drive device. Turbo shaft engines are used in many helicopters, as well as tanks and boats.
Yes. Just be aware of how deep the water is. Pick a spot. Pull up slow. Put into neautral. If your in drive and the water level is low your prop could grab sending you right or left and possibly damaging your drive shaft or prop.
Not on any post 1998 models. Just a filler plug, located behind the front prop-shaft (drive shaft). The dipstick would be located in the same hole, on earlier models.