That is a possibility, but like most potentially expensive or difficult repairs, check the cheaper stuff first. The problem may be that the brake fluid is old and water contaminated. In modern ABS braking systems, water in the fluid can really soften up the feel of the pedal.This can be tested at most any brake shop (usually free) and either you can flush the system yourself (pain in the butt) or many brake shops have machines to do it now for about $100. There may be a leak in the system somewhere that either allowed the reservoir to get low enough to suck air, or is simply letting precious hydraulic pressure (and fluid) escape. Not all leaks are immediately visible, so check carefully, caliper piston seal and rear brake cylinder seal leaks are hard to spot without removing wheels and drums, so do that before jumping to conclusions. Another common possibility is that the rear brake shoes have not been adjusting properly, causing the cylinder pistons to have to travel further, which uses up pedal travel making it feel soft. The shoes should be so close to the drum that a piece of paper won't fit. They are supposed to self adjust, but for whatever reason this doesn't always happen, and when they're too far out of adjustment they simply cannot adjust themselves.
Master cylinder possible but could also be wheel cylinder problems or warped rotors
If the master cylinder reservoir is empty, you have a leak somewhere. If the master cylinder reservoir is full, the master cylinder is bad.
There is no shift solenoid. There is a Master and slave cylinder instead. Master slave cylinder is bolts underneath the Brake Master cylinder. The slave cylinder is here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtrTcX8wym8 Video provided by Richpin :) -RC-
No, not unless there is a problem with the valve which is rare.
You have a problem with your braking system. I suggest you check the brake fluid in the Master Cylinder and if it is ok, seek help from a professional.You have a problem with your braking system. I suggest you check the brake fluid in the Master Cylinder and if it is ok, seek help from a professional.
i had this problem with a Nissan truck i had what i done is there is prob a nut on the clutch pedal that goes to the master cylinder adjust it and c what u get
Whenever you are having a problem with the clutch disengaging the engine from the transmission it is advisable to bleed the clutch slave cylinder. If the clutch can't be operated by bleeding the slave cylinder then the clutch master cylinder is gone and should be replaced.
a heater does not have a master cylinder; 'master cylinder' goes with assisted braking.
If the brakes are staying engaged after pressing down on the pedal then releasing, you either have a leak and the fluid is depleted, or the brake master cylinder is leaking internally or externally. Have the master cylinder checked.
there are two types of master cylinders 1.single cylinder 2.tendom master cylinder
Best answer I've found is here (I have a 2001 F150): http://www.clutchwizard.com/fordtruck.htm Basically the problem is that the master cylinder is at the wrong angle to bleed the system completely with the master cylinder attached to the firewall. You have to take the master cylinder off the firewall and detach it from the clutch pedal, then tilt it to get the air into the line. After that, you bleed it in more or less the usual way, with a helper operating the bleed valve, but pushing the piston directly instead of pushing the clutch pedal. The alternative is to assemble the whole system off the truck and bleed it on a bench. Good thing they made the master cylinder and the brake cylinder out of PLASTIC, and put the slave cylinder INSIDE the bell housing, huh? (My slave cylinder went at less than 60K).
Check the level of hydraulic oil (aka brake fluid) in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. If it is empty you found your problem. Either the master or the slave cylinder is leaking.