Yes, although a normally occurring short, assuming you mean the headlights were lit.
You would have to buy a computer control module from
ignition module bad shorting out when hot
you would get pregnant
there is no fuse i beleave just for the right headlight, i presume your right headlight is not working, do you have xenon or halogen bulbs, if you have xenon then the most likely cause is headlight xenon control modules, if the module is the cause i would sudjest replacing both headlight modules, and the front right xenon bulb. good luck.
if you short a batt, the sparks would make you stop shorting it. test the battery or install it correctly. if every thing works your lucky no damage happend. lol I doubt this answer is accurate... please check comments for my view on this subject
It sounds like a short. The short will draw constant current from the battery even with the key off. I would look start looking for the short in the headlight harness, or better yet your headlight switch. If your battery has tested good, have your alternator tested for a current draw; this is a common problem. The alternator has power going to it regardless of the key position. Replace the headlight buzzer.
The engine control module "learns" how to set the idle speed. When you disconnect the battery the engine control module loses that memory and it has to be reset. To regain the setting drive the car for several miles at moderate speeds and it is reset.
Sounds like an electrical short or a battery failiure, which can mean a new battery ,a new phone, or that somthing is shorting the length of the circuit .remove the battery immediately since they can explode in rare instances.First try another battery, if the problem is still there then its either a phone short circuit or an obstruction short circuit which would either require cleaning or rewiring.Hope this help :)
THE IGNITION CONTROL MODULE can be at two locations one is mounted right near the distrubutor the other location is on the drivers side fender behind the battery.........corey
The Single Module Engine Controller (SMEC) or Single Board Engine Controller (SBEC)is located on the left inner fender panel behind the battery. Remove the battery cables and remove the battery (negative cable first, of course). The air intake for the engine passes over and cools the module. Disconnect the intake duct at the module. Now remove the screw that secures the wiring harness to the module and carefully remove the harness by pulling straight out. Finally, you can unbolt and remove the module from the fender panel. In Nov, 2002, I purchased a module from a salvage yard in Avon, MN, Martini Auto Parts. Costs $55.00 including shipping. Module worked fine. Martini sold a good product at a fair price and shipped it when they said they would. Would do business with them again. I hope this helps you. Eddie, Lubbock, TX
The battery is probably bad. As they get old they lose the power to recharge all the way. If you had a full charge you could still drive quite a while (with no head lights on) even with the alternator/generator dead, unless the gen/alt is shorting out which is rare.
You would have infinite amperes if there was no resistance in the battery plates, the battery terminal posts and in the wires that are shorting the battery.But there is always resistance in those things so - depending on the thickness and therefore the effective resistance of the wires that are shorting the battery - the short circuit current will be from a few amps to many hundreds of amps and, unless someone sees it and acts quickly to remove the cause of the short, that current will continue until the battery either explodes or just runs down very fast.I've seen them go both ways, along with the shorting wires smoking and then glowing like an electric fire, and also I have seen molten globs of hot metal dripping off from carelessly misplaced tools such as heavy screwdrivers, particularly if made of aluminum, and such things as small wrenches.