Both Tyvek and EasyGard have important requirements for getting the industry rated protection. The requirements for EasyGard can be found here: Note that from the web site above you can do searches for other EasyGard competitors (including Tyvek) and draw your own conclusions about equivalence of the housewraps.
From personal experience using both materials I can vouch for EasyGard being unable to qualify for airflow mitigation. It tends to be so porous that if you have wind-blown rain it will be driven through the material. Conversely, Tyvek is exceptionally good at reducing infiltration, especially when taping the edges as advised, as well as using an adhesive neoprene-type roll sealant around all door and window openings.
If installation of EasyGard is made during dry periods and siding is applied in a short time, with adequate flashing and caulking, it might be worth the reduced price. However, as I have found, if you have wind-blown rain prior to getting the siding installed do not be surprised to find your sheathing behind the EasyGard sufficiently moist so as to cause moisture problems with the siding further down the road. This is especially true if you use a cementboard siding, such as Hardieplank, and are not meticulous in making certain it is properly caulked (I advise using a flat piece of roofing flashing behind each joint due to the siding changing length with temperature changes (especially true if you use a dark house paint) to such a degree that even the best polyurethane caulk will eventually crack), and the bottom edge of the siding being fully painted.
I currently have a very large garage that needs siding, but I can not get to it until we have at least a week of warm, dry weather. The sheathing was bone dry at time of the housewrap application, but after the first rain the sheathing became fully saturated behind large sections of the EasyGard housewrap. On the same structure a portion done with Tyvek remained bone dry.
An additional item of note is that absolutely no staples are to be used with EasyGard. There are no exceptions. It simply is not strong enough to hold up to any wind if the only fasteners are staples. Ringshank nails with the round plastic caps are the only fasteners to be used. They work quite well, but I am one who is used to using the hammer tacker to put up Tyvek. That process does not work with this material.
A drawback of the plastic caps is that it is very likely you will drop some on the ground as you work. I found they have a tendency to land nail-side up, and are very adept at sinking the entire way through the sole of my shoe. For those who use anything longer that 3/4-1" long nails on the caps, you will find it very unpleasant when you step on one.
Bottom line is that EasyGard is about half the price of Tyvek. Tyvek is exceedingly good at stopping infiltration, can be left uncovered for years at a time, can be installed using standard staples in a staple gun or hammer tacker. Tyvek allows very little moisture penetration. The negative is that with so little moisture being transmitted through the material it would be best not to apply it over wet sheathing, especially oriented strand board (OSB) which has a tendency to swell when wet and does not return to its previous shape when it dries, the way plywood will.
EasyGard will save money at time of installation, like Tyvek comes in a standard nine-foot-tall roll, is very light and easy for one person to install. The nailing method can stand up to high winds prior to siding installation. The negatives are that a stapler is far faster and easier to use than the nailing method, sections that have not been fully nailed can start to unravel in as little as one or two days in moderate wind, and under no circumstances would I leave a structure covered in this housewrap without siding for even a single rainstorm. We had 75 degrees and clear skies, yet I am unable to install siding where I have used the EasyGard. When I press my hand against it my hand comes away dripping wet in spite of every section covered in Tyvek being as if there had been no rain storms. For my application here in Oregon I feel it is penny-wise, pound-foolish.
form_title=Hire a Siding Contractor form_header=Whether you are remodeling or repairing after a disaster, a siding contractor can help repair your house. What type of project is this?= () New House () Remodel () Repair What type of siding do you currently have?=_ Will you be paying us directly or will it be from insurance?=_
If you're talking about a house or something in that category he's called a Contractor.
Vinyl siding is easily replaced if the contractor has left you some siding. In most cases if the contractor hasn't left you any siding, the siding may be very hard to obtain. Most companies discontinue the siding so you have to replace the whole house this is how they make there money. If you have a couple extra pieces of siding, there is a tool commonly known as the zip tool. It usually has a p shape on the end of it, you slip it under the bottom of the lock of the siding and slide it across this should unlock the vinyl. What you want to do after that is pop out the nails with a flat bar, this should free the peice of vinyl from the house. When you are re-installing the siding make sure you grab the right size roofing nails to re-sucure it.
Few home improvements or repairs can improve the appearance, curb appeal and value of a house like new house siding. House sinding materials have varied over the years and have included wood siding, asbestos siding, aluminium siding, vinyl siding or cement fiber siding.
Of course not. You can only be reimbursed for the repair of the damaged area. If the siding does not match due to fading or such perhaps the adjuster can work out replacment to a corner or something. You can't get something for nothing.
form_title= House Siding form_header= Install new siding in your home. Does your existing siding need to be removed?*= () Yes () No Do you want vinyl siding?*= () Yes () No WHat is your budget for new siding?*= _  What color siding do you want to install?*= _ 
yes it is...i forgot what they are called but yes you do that to draw a correct house
You don't do it. That is probably the dumbest thing you could do short of burning it down..... Do not ever do something that would reduce the value of your house. I would walk away from a house that had this done, regardless..... Vinyl siding is for cheap construction. As a rule, when you touch siding, it should not move. And lastly, it NEVER looks good (covering old siding with new) and ALWAYS looks cheap. Plus, you can never paint your house again....
a square in siding or roofing is 100 square feet (10x10) most house are between 10 and 14 square of siding
-- If you use the house to store a truckload of siding inside, then it's volume. -- If you cover the outside of the house with siding, then it's surface area. -- If you lay pieces of siding on the ground all around the foundation, then it's perimeter.