orthodontic repair
A spring retainer in the shifter breaks. The dealer has a repair package, and some are under a recall.A spring retainer in the shifter breaks. The dealer has a repair package, and some are under a recall.
You should not be wearing a retainer with a broken wire. It should be taken back to your Dentist to hare it properly repaired and adjusted. For more information about denture concerns and denture repair visit: www.westpenndentalcenter.com
If it is an early bronco, the easiest way is to remove the grill. There are approximately 8 screws around the grill. This will let you get to the retainer screws and the bulb just plugs in. This is the suggested way from the better repair manual for the broncos. If it is the later bronco, there is a retainer on the back side of the headlight shell that can be turned about a quarter turn to release the bulb, it is separate from the headlight reflector. You might have to remove the battery or reach down along side the washer reservoir to reach the retainer, and if the bulb hasn't been removed for awhile, the retainer might stick. The retainers have been known to break, they are plastic and do run hot, but they are available at most car part stores.
The axle retainer nut is a 30mmTorque spec: 170-203 ft. lbs.See "Related Questions" belowAccording to the Autozone.com repair guide (see "Related Links" below), the torque specification for the axel retainer nut is 157-212 ft. lbs.EITHER 30MILLIMETER 32 OR 36 MILLIMETER I 'vote' for the 30mm - Ford seems to use that size often (Sable/Taurus have 'em too)The axle nut should be 30mmSee "Related Questions" below for moreAxle nut torque specs are 170-203 ft.lbs
When retainers break, they may no longer fit properly or be effective in maintaining the alignment of your teeth. It is important to contact your orthodontist for a replacement or repair to prevent your teeth from shifting. Continued use of a broken retainer can lead to misalignment and require additional orthodontic treatment.
Get a replacement 'retainer clip' from your dealership for under $3. You might find the pieces of the old one in the bottom of your door. It will clip onto that rod, then snap into the hole on the latch.
The inside of the tailgate, that is the part that faces up when the tailgate is down will have a panel that is held on by screws, it will give you access to the inner workings. Usually it is a little 20 cent retainer that has broken and is available at any parts store.
Other than pressing the brake pedal, there are no safeties. These shifters have a spring retainer inside them that is prone to breaking. The dealer sells a repair kit.
I assume you mean the pedal came off. Did it break or did the retainer clip that holds the pedal on the shaft come off? It may just be a case of putting it back together and maybe a new C clip or cotter pin.
With Volvo's not being popular vehicles that do-it-yourselfers repair, I would recommend going to your local "stealership" and speaking with one of the technicians. They will be able to tell you how they bought there wrench and you may just get lucky and find one that will come by your house or loan you his briefly.
Replacement of the fuel lines was harder than it should be. Used a metal disconnect tool to remove the quick-connect fittings of fuel lines (3) at engine compartment. Then removed brackets securing lines in engine compartment and on firewall. The next step I did was un-couple the three fuel lines that run parallel on the underside of the vehicle. Two of three lines were so rusted that they broke free when attempting to pull off the plastic quick-connect fittings. After this, the big plastic triangular fuel-line retainer that mounts inside the lower frame was removed. This part was difficult because the 2-piece retainer (clinched together in frame) did not allow any of the metal lines to be pulled straight out. Also, I had to remove the sway bar so that there was room to slide the plastic retainer out and away. I cut the three lines flush to the plastic retainer (on fire wall side) since they were extremely rusted. For the replacement, I ended up using Nylon lines (equipped with quick-connects) and double bead fuel pipes for the repair. The double bead pipes were secured by the 2-piece plastic retainer of the lower frame.
If you are referring to the driveshaft from the transmission to the rear differential in the All-Wheel-Drive models, I'm wondering if you have an after-market U-Joint. Mine don't have any such caps, and the repair manual doesn't address them.