Don't do it, get a code reader or take it to someone that has one. You risk damaging the computer if you short the wrong connections.
The DLC (data link connector) is located under the dash just below the steering column if you have a 1996 or newer Villager. Pre-1996 vehicles have diagnostic connector mounted on the transaxle beside the starter which must be jumpered to obtain the fault codes.
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You get the software for the engine (e.g., DDEC for Detroit, Insite for Cummins, and I'm drawing a blank remembering what it is for Cat) and a diagnostic connector (such as NexIQ or Inline for Cummins), pull up the fault codes, and reset them. Now, if it's something which is going to be recurring, those codes will come back until you repair the fault (if they clear at all).
basically, p 1080 is a fault code that faults many codes, it faults codes that is a code for a fault, when you get a faulty code you need to un fault it with a code called p 1080, which is a fault code that measures fault codes!
I need to know the computer fault codes I need numbered bios codes and not bleep codes
Go to any auto parts store (O'Reilly, Auto Zone, NAPA, Advance, etc.). Most of them have an OBDII scanner and will diagnose fault codes on your vehicle free of charge.
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Hook up a laptop with the appropriate software to read Cat fault codes.
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Because there's an intermittent issue which needs to be addressed. You need to have the DTCs (fault codes) read to find out which codes you have, what your active codes are, what your inactive codes are, and how many counts of each fault you have.
Probably the vehicle speed sensor located in the transaxle extension housing, or a wiring fault up to the cluster are the cause of the problem. If the speed sensor is faulty, you will also have a fault code 15 stored. See the linked page for more information on how to get the codes. If there is no code for the speed sensor in memory, you may have a wiring fault. The speed sensor signal is carried on a white/orange wire in the left side connector on the digital dash. It splices to a wire of the same color leading to the connector for the traveler/navigator trip computers, and leads to a large 8-way connector forward of the left (drivers side) shock tower. From there it runs down to the distance sensor. Check continuity between the connector in the dash and the 8-way connector. If you have continuity, then your digital cluster may be at fault.
TAke it to auto Zone They will read the codes free.