I used a breaker bar and 30mm socket to remove the front axle nut. Remove the brake calipers and rotors by removing the two large screws in the rear of the steering knuckle. set the assembly to the side on a bucket or something and be careful not to damage the brake line. Unplug the ABS sensor and remove from brackets shared with the brake line.
Attach a special tool called a hub puller (it looks like three fingers and a thumb) by using lug nuts. Insert the screw push mechanism down the center to push the axle out of the hub until you feel it stop. Too much pushing can damage the joints covered by the rubber boot. You can rent the tools at an auto parts store like Auto Zone or O'Reilys/Chucks/Checkers.
With the axle pushed back you should be able to gain access to the three "hell screws" that fasten the hub assembly to the steering knuckle. Use break-loose spray on the ends of the nuts. The heads are 15mm, so a breaker bar with short extension, or box end wrench with and exaggerated offset is necessary. You may have to use blow torch at intervals to get the screws to move. These three screws may not come out all the way, so if you can get them to come out partially, that is good because they can be cut into two (there are no threads in the steering knuckle). A 5 lbs slide hammer (that screws to the hub puller) is absolutely necessary to pull the hub forward and out. This will cause a gap to widen so that you can cut the screws (assuming that the new bearing comes with new screws as they often do), and the screw heads to lower so that you have more room for a socket. Note: this is a very long and pain full process. If the screw head shears off or rounds out than the only other option is to cut the head off somehow to pull the body through the non-threaded steering knuckle. Auto shops will just remove the entire steering knuckle.
Be care full not to damage the rubber boot or axle tines. There is a black silicone material between the knuckle and hub, don't worry about this, because it does not the hub to stick any more or less. The only force that can remove the hub is repeated outward force from a slide hammer. Good luck and don't give up!
There is a complete walk through with pictures on how to change the front bearings on a 2003 Ford Explorer on my site: http://conceptxchange.wordpress.com/2011/06/23/changing-the-front-hub-assembly-on-a-2003-ford-explorer/
The 2003 Ford Explorer has 43.9 in. of front leg room.
The 2003 Ford Explorer has 55 in. of front hip room.
The 2003 Ford Explorer has 59.1 in. of front shoulder room.
The 2003 Ford Explorer has 39.9 in. of front head room.
The front track of the 2003 Ford Explorer is 5 ft. 0.9 in. (60.9 in.).
A 2003 Ford Explorer Sport ( the two door version of the Ford Explorer ) has shock absorbers front and rear
replacing 2003 fore explorer sport front wheel bearings
follow the lines to the front you will see the filter by the radiator just like my 03 xlt
6x8 for front and rear
Your 2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac - 4.0 L - SOHC - V6 engine has 3 timing CHAINS - 2 chains at the front of the engine and 1 chain at the back of the engine
The 2003 Ford Explorer has rear wheel drive.