Not being familiar with your 93 Eldorado, this answer will be generic in nature, and it applies to all troubleshooting of switch versus device being bad. Usually, there will be an unpluggable connector very close to the device [in your case the trunk "pull-down" motor]. Hopefully it will have only two wires [and terminals inside the connector]. Disconnect the connector and set Volt-Ohmmeter [VOM] to 12 Volts. Insert the test probes, one into each hole in the connector, and hold firmly in contact with the metal contact in each hole. When using a VOM, or any electrical test equipment, it is critical that good, solid contact is made between the test lead probes and the contact or wire under test. Otherwise, the test may not be valid, and you will reach the wrong conclusion regarding the condition being tested. Have an assistant activate the switch, and watch the meter to see if it goes to 12 Volts. If it does, then that implies that the switch is good. IF it doesn't, it suggests that the switch is bad, but don't quit yet. Reset the VOM selector switch to the Ohms scale [probably the "1x," or "10x" scale setting] and insert the test probes solidly into the holes of the connector on the motor leads. If the meter needle moves significantly, then that suggests that the motor does not have a broken wire inside which creates an "open" circuit condition. In electrical terms, the circuit is said to have "continuity," which means electricity flows through the whole section being tested. An open circuit condition suggests that the motor has become defective and will have to be replaced or rebuilt. Properly done, your tests should indicate that one is good, and one is bad, but could show both good or bad.
The pull down motor switch could be defective. Check for power to the motor
check in trunk, right or left quarter panel for fuse box
possibly the up solonoid located in the trunk attached to the convertable top motor.
Remove the plastic cover inside the trunk that surrounds the motor. There should be a connect at the bottom of the motor on the right side. Disconnect it there.
If this question is about the trunk lid pull down---there is a switch on the side of the pull-down motor--first step. Else complete pull-down assembly from junk yard.
ANSWER:There are two fuses that power this system:A 40 amp Maxi fuse in the under-hood fuse panel.A 15 amp fuse in the under-dash fuse panel.Are you sure you checked both?Is there a "Trunk Ajar" light on the dash?From there, check that you're getting power to the pull-down motor at two points:1. The Orange wire2. The Dark Green wireThe Black/yellow wire is the ground feed that goes to the latch switch. It provides the ground for the pull-down motor, so see if it is providing a ground. If so, the motor itself is suspect and should be checked for binding etc. prior to replacing.If you don't have the funds to replace the motor pulley, simply consider the following:Simply tap the silver bar located on the motor's left side downward into it's pulled down ending place. Having done this, your trunk will lock and close and protect things in your trunk as well as theft of your car. Just keep tapping with a gentle hammer hit until the trunk closes. Your electric trunk open will still function (if it is already functioning) and the water/snow will stay outside where it belongs. Replace motor later. It's about $40 US dollars as I recall.I found that the hammer technique did not work, so I opened the motor to gain access to the rotor and turned the rotor manually to adjust the position of the silver bar. Doing this put the trunk light switch out of commission, so I removed the trunk light and now keep a flashlight there. Put the rotor back in its housing and reattach housing, so that manually adjusted position of the silver bar is retained.I did everything that they said in this answer, but nothing happened. What i did to make it work was to make sure the switch on both the motor (next to the silver latch) and the trunk lid (i small black switch in the housing).
yes-Where the electrical plug connects 2 the motor(4 wires) there one screw that holds down the switch-TAKE it out & spray it with Contact cleaner while U are working the switch.
it is in the trunk area.
my switch went out leaving my trunk in the "up" position as the motor never activated to pull it down, but the motor was still fine. Instead of replacing it i just used two "jump wires" as in wires with alligator clips on both ends and i applied power just long enough to lower to the desired position to keep dust and water out of my trunk you may find this cheaper then replacing it. if that doesn't work putting in a latch u bolt in place of the motor is possible but a little know how may be required to convert it with lining it up in proper placement etc.
It's the switch because the motor is getting power to go up but not down.
A loose kill switch wire on your out board motor will cause the engine to lose power. As the kill switch loses contact the motor will begin to bog down or completely quit.
The wiper motor has a switch inside of it. When they are turned off and the wipers go to the down position it trips the switch in the motor that tells the computer they are in the down position. If that switch in the motor is faulty, the wipers are repositioning until the switch is tripped to the off position. THE FIX.... Replace the wiper motor.