How do you remove the fan clutch on a 1997 Dodge 1500?

Answer 1

BEFORE YOU START, ASSEMBLE THE TWO FOLLOWING VERY IMPORTANT TOOLS: As far as I remember, all nuts and bolts were metric sizes. You'll need a medium sized pipe wrench or a large adjustable wrench to remove the nut behind the fan assembly. You might want to locate this item first as you're stuck without removing it. It's a large nut located between the fan assembly and the engine. It must be removed and reassembled on the new water pump, so don't start without a wrench large enough to turn it. And make sure the wrench fits behind the fan assembly enough to turn. Don't remove the belt yet. I don't know the nut size as I used a 15" adjustable wrench on it. Also, one of the bolts holding the water pump on has a 12-point internal star turning surface so you'll need a 12-point star type socket to fit it also. It's located just above the pulley and you should be able to test-fit a socket. I don't know the size either. All other bolts were metric size. Remove the upper radiator hose at the radiator right hand side as you face the engine. Fold it gently up to the engine block out of the way. Unplug the windshield washer tank level sensor connector, the pump supply connector, and the windshield washer fluid feed hose. You can leave the tank attached. Disconnect and remove the radiator overflow tank. I believe it should just push up out of the shroud. You might try loosening the fan bolts behind the fan assembly or leave it on and take the fan shroud off with four bolts. It just barely will clear between the radiator and the fan but it's tight. Lean it over toward the engine to remove. Put a large flat screwdriver somewhere between the unibelt and the water pump pulley or some other pulley carefully to not damage the belt or pulley. Turn the large nut between the fan and the water pump ccw to remove the fan assembly. Remove the lower radiator hose at the left side of the water pump. Remove the smaller hose on the right side. Remove the bolt holding the small hose inlet tube to the engine block assembly and remove the tube from the water pump. Remove the bolts holding the water pump in. Place each bolt through corrugated fiberboard in a pattern similar to the layout of the water pump so you'll know where each one goes back. There are short ones and long ones. Don't mix them up. There is one special one at the top of the pulley that requires the internal star socket. The one I used was designed to fit on a 3/8" drive and was large so those types will fit. Now the water pump can be loosened with a large screwdriver against the block assembly. There is a small hose at the top of the water pump going back to the engine block. While removing the water pump, this hose must be loosened at the same time. Clean the engine block with gasket removing material. Do not chip or scratch the aluminum block with a sharp blade. Use brass wire brushes, sandpaper, brass scrapers, or mechanic's cloth. Get the surface flat and shiney Take the old pump with you when getting the new one. Make sure the new gasket fits the old pump and make sure there is a small o-ring for the small tube as it enters the water pump and make sure there's a fitting for the other small hose at the top of the pump. Get a small pack of gasket material also, blue type for hot water. Now would also be a good time to replace those factory-type hose clamps or buy the special pliers for them. And get a gallon of antifreeze. Put the gasket sealer on the pump side along the seal lines in as continuous line as possible about the width of a pencil lead if possible. Put the gasket on the pump and put a couple of bolts in it and tighten these two bolts at least 5 or six turns only. Put the remainder of bolts in a few turns. Before tightening the bolts, make sure the upper radiator hose goes on over the fitting. Tighten the bolts slowly making sure the hose slips into place and you can get to the clamp to tighten it. Tighten the bolts down until the water pump makes contact with the block, then tighten the bolts a turn or so apiece to keep the surface flat as possible as the gasket compound spreads over the gasket. Tighten till snug or find the manufacturer's recommended torque wrench setting. Put the new o-ring on the tube and put it back in place and tighten the hose clamp. Put the fan assembly back on the water pump and tighten the nut. Put both hoses back on the radiator and fill the system and run the engine testing for leaks. Put the fan shroud back on and reconnect and refill the windshield washer assembly and the radiator overflow all with water to test for leaks. Run the engine at least a few miles and watch the temperature and watch for steam coming out of the engine compartment at red lights. After at least 10 miles or so drain the radiator and refill with the right antifreeze to water mix. Make sure the windshield washer still works and fill with freeze proof washer fluid if needed.