Been there, done that.
First, a little preface. I had two leaking injectors in my '96. My mechanic and I pulled the injectors out to examine them. We found no cracks or any other signs of damage, so we replaced the O rings and put everything back together. While this helped, I still had two injectors leaking. We ended up replacing those two leaky injectors. Everything is fine and my mileage increased by about 3 MPG!
The point is, that you might have leaky injectors, not just leaky O rings. Considering that new injectors are fairly inexpensive, (I paid $76 each at Auto Zone) you might want to just replace them right off the bat.
But on to your question. Getting the O rings on/off the injectors is the easy part. It's a no brainer. But first, you have to get the injectors out of the holes in which they live. (I strongly suggest picking up a Haynes or Chilton manual. Their instructions and illustrations are pretty good and will give you a good overview of the job.) The job is fairly direct. You'll probably need to remove the large air intake tube to gain access. After that, you have to remove the black cover from the accelerator housing. This is the black boxy thing on the left (when viewing from the front of the car) and to the rear of the valve cover. You'll know it by the accelerator cable and maybe the cruise control cable which go into it. Take loose the cables and remove the housing that holds them. You'll see that this needs to be done to get at the left side of the plate which runs across the engine in front of the injectors. It is what holds the injectors in place. The other side is pretty accessible. If I recall correctly there are a couple of Torx screws that hold the plate in place. Once it's off, you can pull the injectors out and replace the O rings or the injectors themselves. When we did mine, my mechanic put some vaseline lookin' stuff on the outside body of the injectors. I guess this helps to slip the new injectors in, and probably helps to keep the O rings pliable. I'm guessing that this was not really vaseline, but an automotive specialty lube. Reassembly is basically the reverse of the above. Hopefully, your problem will be solved..
Take note that I've probably omitted some steps. My memory is good, but it's short ;)
Also note, that this is based on my experience with the small OHV engine. Your car may require drastically different procedures.
Again, please pick up a Haynes or Chilton manual!
FriPilot
remove fuel rail above the injectors un hook the wire and pop it out clean around the injector before removeing it keep the dirt out of the cyl use alittle grease on the oring when you put the new one in
Nicole Oring was born on January 19, 1977, in Seoul, South Korea.
There are two reasons i know of . first the oring in the piston is either cut or twisted. The other is that the o ring on the piston is to small. The only cure is to replace it either way.
4.3 for static
Stuart A. Oring has written: 'A comparative investigation of the similarities and differences in the aesthetic theories of Alfred Stieglitz, Edward Weston, Ansel Adams, and Minor White'
I'm sorry, but I can't assist with that.
that is a tricky metal ring (locking ring) there is a special tool for that.but if you are going to do this once no need to spend the money on a tool you will never use again. the trick is to get all the tabs started at the same time. there is an oring and you need to push the metal ring straight against the oring and turn clock wise until all the tabs catch. then get a chisel or screw driver and a hammer. there are outside tabs on the metal ring. tap them and turn the whole thing in clock wise.wala It is easier to fit the oring...if you will be sure the area is clean of any dirt and grit. Grease the area lightly on the tank, the area also where the oring contacts the tank, and the locking ring side to oring. Press firmly together, all tabs do need to be interlocked. Be sure oring is under and sealing. DO NOT STRIKE lock ring , to fit it in place. NO SPARKS.
most likely a valve oring in damaged.
Disconnect the hoses and electrical connections from the sending unit, rotate the locking ring counter clockwise until the "ears" of the locking ring line up with the opening on the tank, remove the locking ring, remove the tank sending unit, inspect the oring and mating surface on the tank for debris, reinstall the oring and new tank sending unit, install locking ring and rotate clockwise until it hits the stops, then reconnect hoses and electrical connections.
the head has to be removed in order to get the drive out all of the way, but the easy way is to cut a notch at the top of the drive where it hits the head to get to the oring while it is still in the block then slide the oring over the top (after soaking in hot water is easier) once you get the new oring on get a SBC dist. gasket, splice it and put it around the top of the drive, the get some RTV silicone and goop it up to seal the gasket back together, this way takes about 2-3 hours and is WAY easier than removing the head,
Answerbad fuel injector oring, leaking internally take to a qualified mechanic for replacement of intake manifold, gaskets, possible engine rebuildCould also be a bad fuel pressure regulator. Or could be running rich due to bad/dirty MAF sensor, temp sensor, over due tuneup, or poor ignition or bad computer.
remove the distributor and remove the oring. reverse removal procedure...oh be careful that you put the dist back in same way it came out or it wont start.this is done by marking rotor position. You also will need a timing light to reset timing. lubricate new oring