How to change a transmission filter on a 1992 Saturn SL2?

Answer 1

its like a oil filter on the transmission same but only different. Be careful, however! The transmission filter looks like the oil filter, so it is possible for yourself (or others) to be confused and change the wrong filter (possibly during a oil change). Do not use a filter wrench to tighten: lubricate the filter seal with a thin film of oil and tighten ONE complete turn only.

The following is from the "life.play.work" link posted below. Here are the steps: Get the right fluids for the job. Standard ATF fluid, an additive, and an OEM auto transmission filter from Saturn. DO NOT use a standard auto filter. Put the car up on ramps. Loosen and/or remove the air box. This will give you easy access to the transmission filter. Un-tighten the transmission drain plug. Let the fluid drain in a pan. Check the fluid colour as it drains. Make sure you let it dribble to the end. Clean up the drips. Check the fluid colour in the pan for problems. Take off the old filter. A filter wrench will help. The old filter. Apply a thin coat of Transmission Fluid to the new filter seal. Just like an oil filter. Make sure you watch the transmission sensors and sensor wires when you put the new filter on. Pour in your additive of choice. Then pour in the ATF. Take the car off the ramps and chalk the back tires with the ramps. Put the car in reverse with the parking break on. Let the car sit in reverse for 30 minutes - I just used my stove timer to keep track of the minutes. While waiting, this is a good time to clean up the mess, and to check the tire pressure, clean the wind sheild, etc. etc. DO NOT LEAVE THE CAR UNATTENDED WHILE IN REVERSE! Stick around for any problems. After the 30 minutes, take it out for a spin around the neighborhood. Try regular driving, …backing up, …3-point turns. Anything that will mimic regular driving. I did this procedure, and our reverse slam was reduced by 95%. I'm hoping this will postpone a valve body replacement for a year or so. In some cases it will completely make the reverse slam problem go away. If it fails to work, you'll need to change the transmission valve body. Fortunately, this is not too difficult, as the transmission does not need to be removed. The valve body is accessible under the airfilter assembly. It is recommended to purchase a reworked valve body that has a "Sonnex" sleeve installed. You'll need to download the transmission service manual as well, or obtain a copy of the service manual from your library so you'll know what the requirements are. The total change over time is 1 day in your garage, after you have all the parts/tools. The fundamental problem is that little bits of aluminum get worn off the pressure relief valve section of the valve body (valve body spool is fine). The valve leaks a little, so the tranmission can't build up enough pressure to engage the clutch, so the transmission ends up shifting gears WITHOUT the clutch being disengaged (the slam you hear is gear slamming). You can confirm the low pressure condition with a pressure gage ($10 at Harbor Freight Tools) into the temp sensor port. You'll notice the problem gets worse when the oil is hot/thinner. The way to avoid this entire problem altogether is to change the transmission fluid EVERY 10,000 miles (not the recommended 30,000 miles; GM knows their 30,000 mile change interval is inadequate, but won't recommend a more frequent interval because they would be sued). Don't let the slamming problem get worse because it CAN do damage to your transmission. Usually the problem will manifest as "reverse slam" initially. You can alleviate the problem by pausing for 3 seconds when shifting from drive-to-reverse (allows time for hydraulic pressure to build up). Eventually, though, (as problem gets worse), the forward gears will slam too. Much better to swap out the valve body.