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If it just started after the thermostat was changed either it was put in backwards or it is not operating properly. GoodluckJoe

was told by a person that experienced the same problem...says that the cars will not overheat when idling no matter how long...only when driving.... says the problem is a bad bottom radiator hose..changed his and doesn't have the problem anymore.

Definitely can. When I replaced mine due to over-heating, I found the plastic impeller had broken up. Your best indication for this sort of failure (including a broken water pump belt) is whether or not you have heat from your heater. No heat = no flow. However, that doesn't rule out a plugged rad or collapsed hose. If the lower rad hose feels very spongy at any point along its length, this could indicate the hose has collapsed internally (the inner hose wall can separate from the hose mesh between the inner and outer walls and collapse during engine operation). Lower hoses often have a light gauge wound spring in them to prevent this and you should be able to detect this. I replied to a question on how to change a water pump for a 1995 V6 that may help you.

OK, my own experiences in this matter, found the following: Thermostat was newer, water pump impellers looked great, hoses seemed OK. Turns out these cars are know for blowing head gaskets. The engine was overheating, and I was getting no heat out of my vents. I was adding water to the overflow like crazy. When I pulled my head gasket, it didnt have any major signs of blow out. Replaced it anyway, and that was the problem. Now the car runs cooler than ever (Temp at "R" in normal). Make sure you replace the Head bots with new ones if you have to do a head gasket replacement (as they are Torque to spec, meaning 1 time use). It really is a PITA to tear into this, many things have to be taken apart to get the head off. Take your time, and do it right.

If you do have to replace your water pump, replace the timing belt as well (as this is another issue with these vehicles)

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