NO! In my business, "Universal" usually means it doesn't fit anything right. Oxygen sensors are designed by application, specifically for the engine, and should always be replaced with a good quality unit...either OEM or Bosch would be a better choice. This sensor provides the feedback to the computer on how much fuel should be added to the incoming air. A good sensor will help in keeping your gas mileage where it should be. Cars also have more than one. If replacing one for failure, it is strongly recommended you replace them all.
Match the wires by their color codes and splice them together with splice connectors and a crimping tool.
There's no universal color code for oxygen sensor wiring. Buy the right sensor, period. If you're buying a generic sensor for your car (possible, but there are still many different kinds) and need to splice the wires from the new sensor to the car, usually the black wire is the ground and the other wire is "hot." With three-wire sensors, try to find a wiring diagram online to match up the colors. It's risky using a voltmeter or test light to find the hot wire(s), because you could fry your computer.
Butt splice connectors are generally not recommended for use with 120 volt AC electrical connections due to safety concerns. It is safer and more appropriate to use wire nuts or other approved connectors that are specifically designed for use with line voltage connections. Using the proper connectors will help ensure a secure and safe electrical connection.
It is not recommended to cut and splice antenna wires as it can impact the performance of the antenna. It's better to use connectors or adapters to extend the length of the antenna.
There exists split bolt connectors that handle that size.
You don't. Buy the correct sensor.
That's the reason that many people buy the generic oxygen sensor then splice the wires rather than fight with the connector. Sometimes it's just not worth it. just grab it on the plastic and pull
All types of end to end wire connectors have to be crimped. Depending on what the environment the splice is to be used in, a second step is to put a heat shrink over the splice. The heat shrink will keep any moisture out of the splice.
You've got 2. Check with your local auto shop - autozone, advance, they all read codes for free. It should tell you sensor 1 or sensor 2. Sensor 1 is under the hood - front of the engine, at the knuckle where your headers come together. Sensor 2 is under the car - right after the catalytic converter. If you aren't very electronic savy, or if you don't wanna get too dirty - I would recommend getting the "exact fit" oxygen sensors - the universal fits aren't just "plug n go" you have to splice wires and it gets time consuming.. spend the money, get the exact fit.
Finding it is the hardest part (in my opinion). In other words, it's an easy job. The FRONT oxygen sensors are at the exhaust manifold. Notice where the exhaust manifold comes out of the engine, follow it down to where it all joins just before where it goes into the exhaust pipe. Somewhere near there you'll see a device that looks a little like a sparkplug and it will have a small wire going to it. That's the oxygen sensor. Before removing the old sensor, get the new one and have it in your hand for inspection. Notice the wire coming out the top and compare it to the wire that comes out of the old oxygen sensor. Sometimes the replacement oxygen sensors have a longer wire and a plug, sometimes you have to "splice" them into the line. If your replacement sensor has an electrical plug on it, make sure it matches the plug on your car. If the replacement does NOT have an electrical plug or if the electrical plug doesn't match YOUR plug... you'll need to "splice" it into place, but the replacement kit should have the crimp connectors to help you there. After you're satisfied that you have everything you need, remove the old sensor. You can purchase a special socket that has a slot for the wire to lay in. That's helpful when putting the new sensor back into place. The old sensor should screw out, but it might be a little rusted in and you might need to fight it a little. Put the new sensor in place, making sure that you remove the plastic protector first. Tighten it, splice the wires if necessary making sure that you connect the colors properly. If the colors on the wires aren't the same as your old unit the directions will tell you what to do. Once it's screwed in and electrically connected, you're done.
Depends on the parts and labor. Should take less than an hour to do both front and rear sensors. Dealer cost for each sensor ranges from $220-$280. Labor rates for 1 hr also vary. Usually in the $105-$145. range depending on which part of the country you're in. Aftermarket universal fit sensors can be had in the range of $40-$80. And you may find a shop that will do the labor for slightly more than half what a dealer charges. Universal fit sensors do not come with the connector attached... if at all. Some shops may simply splice the sensors in with the old harness (this is the cheap way to go) others will transfer the old connectors to the new sensors, (not cheap as time is money and this can be time consuming) usually priced at the normal labor rate). There you have it. Do the math!
Split bolt connectors are a mechanical connection and are not approved for underground splices. Use an approved C clamp or butt splice hypress connection for the splice. Install heat shrink over the wire before making the splice, to seal the connection for underground waterproofing.