CHEVY S10 STARTER REMOVAL
First, disconnect the negative battery cable.
There may be a support bracket attached to the end of the starter. Lift the engine slightly with a hydraulic jack and block of wood to remove the bolt that attaches the starter to the bracket. You shouldn't need to remove the bracket from the engine.
Remove the small inspection plate that is installed on the bell housing next to the starter.
There are two bolts that are installed vertically at the bottom of the starter near the bell housing cover. While removing these bolts make sure to support the starter to keep it from falling. The starter should drop down far enough to disconnect the wiring attached to the solenoid. It's a good idea to mark the cables with chalk or tape, noting where they are attached so that you may reconnect them later.
There seems to be a lot more to this bracket than given here. I recently replaced my starter and noticed that the bracket was missing. Upon installing the starter it only whines (runs at high speed and does not engage the flywheel. Does this bracket in fact align the starter gear with the flywheel? I noticed that when the two main support bolts were slightly loose there is a lot of side-to-side play in the starter, enough to jam or miss engagement? Seems pretty strange to me. Book says to use gauge pin, ha, who writes these things.
Sorry man, it's obvious this guy has never removed a starter from a 96 S10, take the drivers side tire off go thru the flap and unhook the wires first, the starter won't just drop down.
He never said what he did to correct problem? I replaced the starter as he described and it whined. I got a light and watched the gear as starter ran; the gear hit on the side of the flywheel; too close. My book is very poor but it indicates that shims may be necessary on the large bolts. I started with .030 and have now gone to .085. Starter engages most of the time especially when cold; hot takes up to 3 trys. Left that fool bracket off. What a mess!
Hi, I've been working on this for months. Thought Henry Ford had an idea! Replaceable parts w/o remachining everything. Of course this is a GM. I am up to 0.100 shims (homemade) and it still whines and gear hit flywheel when hot. That's precision? There were no shims originally. There is NO way to gauge it on newer S10's. It used to be a poor procuct would spell doom for the manufact'r...not anymore or was that why they failed? Going to 0.125 today....I now never unhook the wires and unked the back bracket. By the way, my book said when it whined to replace the starter...must have sold a lot of starters with that one....
on ebay search for NEW STARTER CHEVY 4.3L S10 BLAZER, C SERIES TRUCK 99 00 01 02 03 04 & ASTRO VAN this gives you an image.
The ignition (spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor) may have been wet or the firing order is mixed up.
disconnect the negative battery cable then the wires from the starter. Remove the mounting bolts and drop the starter down. Try this for Chev S10 problems. Buy the Chilton General Motors publication #28860. It covers S10s 1982-93 from detailing to engine rebuilds, including changing the starter.
The 02 Chevy S10 with a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder does not have a timing belt.
You failed to mention what year the S10 is but, most of them use a fusible link to protect the alternator circuit.
The started on a 1996 Chevy S10 4 cylinder is located under the battery and to the right. With the right tools and time it is not hard to replace.Ê
the starter relay.
The starter solenoid is attached to the starter.
It is attached to the starter.
Yes they are the same
AC compressor clutch relay, starter relay, high speed blower motor relay,
Yes
YES.
The starter solenoid is attached to the starter.
Follow the positive battery cable from the battery, it will lead you right to the starter.
How do you replace the front drivers seat on a 1996 Chevy S10 pick up truck
On the passenger side of the engine in the back.