The symptoms may be one of several things.One is when you start the truck the gauges may not like the fuel,water temp,and warning lights do not come on.Another issue as (I have had) start the truck gauges work,warning lights but,when I turn the fan on for air,or heat nothing and had to jiggle the key in the ignition and it came on.Also had to remove the main fuse it is the large black in the center of the fuse block and reinstall to make the fan work.The other possibility is delay of no start or nothing happening when the key is on and not due to the alternator,starter,or battery or bad grounds.Even the dome light,radio not working as another example with the key on or even the truck running but,no power to either items.If you need to replace it just remove the five screws on the steering column, and the key cylinder or ignition is accessable.When replacing disconnect the ground cable on the battery before you do this as not to cause any sparks,or blowing fuses or melting wiring.The average cost of a new ignition is around 130.00 by most auto stores like auto zone,advance autoparts.
Ignition switch going bad, corroded or loose battery cables, starter relay or starter going bad.
Probably not a bad ignition switch, but more likely a bad starter solenoid. It takes a lot of current to get a starter to turn, to much to go through such a small switch like the ignition switch. The ignition switch actually controls a relay(solenoid) which can handle the needed current to get the starter going. On a lot of modern cars the solenoid is built into the starter unlike older cars and trucks where it was mounted on the firewall between the battery and the starter.
I have the same problem, going to have a locksmith make sure its the ignition switch and cylinder and just not a key problem or a tumbler problem.
The knob you pull out is attached to the switch. To get the switch out, you will have to remove the panel underneath the dash, and some of the HVAC ductwork that runs underneath. Disconnect the battery. On the back of the switch, under the dash, there will be a little button you will have to push in to get the switch's shaft & knob to release from the switch. After that is done, you will be able to pull off the trim going around the face of the dash. It should just snap on. Then there will be a nut holding the switch to the dash. Remove the nut, the switch will come out the back, and then you can unplug it. Replace in reverse of these directions, only leave the swith shaft/knob for last. It will just push back into the new switch.
Depends on the year, if it is a newer truck than the theft system will have to be relearned. turn the key on and let it sit for 10 minutes. on some vehicles this works, otherwise you need to have it done at a gm dealer.
It is wired inline with the Crank wire going from the ignition to the starter solenoid located on the starter. Clutch up --> open switch (no start); Clutch down --> closed switch (start) Very basic for this year of truck.
the wire is Yellow coming out of the ignition switch going to the Neutural safety switch, then purple from the neutual safety switch to the starter
starting at the ignition switch going down the steering column. Next is an ignition switch. from there it goes to the selinoid. Inbetween the celinoid and the ignition switch, just above the celinoid is two fusable links.
you have to go under the dash and take out the steering column. and the ignition switch should have a wire going down to the bottom of the column coming from the ignition lock.
You're going to have to unbolt the steering column and drop it down. The ignition switch will be on the top of the column along with your high beam switch. Unbolt the switch then unplug it.
I suggest going to nada.com it will allow you to put in the specifics for your truck and get a overall value for the truck with the options,mileage,condition that are applicable.Edmonds.com will do the same process.
you need to be more specific. i am going to assume you want to know in what position is the ignition switch in lock. usually it is 2 positions back from "run" but it is in whichever position the key comes out of the ignition.
It is important to know the symptoms of a part going bad. The signs of an ignition switch going bad is it overheating, no clicking when trying to start, the car has issues starting and running.
Dont know which one it is but my 98 milliena has the same problem and i am going to replace the ignition switch I'll let you know what happens Well i replaced the ingnition switch. My problem is now fixed. My car had other issues with this problem. My starter would engage when the car was not in gear. It would engage in p. and in n. If you have these issues it could very well be the switch. good luck
If I remember correctly, an ignition "Kill Switch" is a secret switch (or button) that must be pushed into a particular position for the ignition system to start the car.... That being said.... Simple. If it's a button that has to be pressed for the (key) ignition to start the car, duct tape it in place. Same for a "light switch" switch". OR...you could solder a wire to circumvent the switch..... :) Now remember...if the switch uses a thicker wire....you're going to want to use a thicker wire when you solder it :)
On a 1986 Lincoln town car, the ignition starter switch is located near the bottom of the steering column. It has a rod going into it that operates it from the key lock assembly.Ê
you are going to have to take the whole key cylinder out.