By the time you asked this question, you must have already had too much oil on the wood. Wipe as much of it off as you can. Use a squeegee if there's still that much. Then rub it. Rub it some more. Rub it again, harder. With dry, soft, cotton cloths. Rubbing heats the oil and helps it penetrate, and the dry cloth removes any excess oil. Oil finishes do not really dry. They're not like paint. They soak into the wood, rather than forming a layer on top of it. If it did dry on top of the wood, you wouldn't like the result. It would stay sticky and gummy, and might even grow mildew.
Apply mild heat, When I want to rush drying I use a cardboard box to set my piece in and set a ceramic heater to blow "WARM" air into the box, it keeps the air circulating and speeds up the drying time. (CAUTION) use warm air don't get into to big of a rush.
It all depends, I suppose, on your usage. The 100% safest way is just to buy it at the store... never try to make it yourself by boiling raw linseed oil as you'll no doubt wind up with a pretty good fire on your hands. Today's "Boiled Linseed oil" is mixed with chemical agenyts that cause it to dry more quickly than raw linseed oil. Heating raw linseed oil (under laboratory conditions!) causes it to polymerize and oxidize, making it thicker and shortening its drying time. Again, kids, don't try this at home!
The stain or paint is rubbed into the pores of the wood and then let dry completely. "Rubbed in" not painted on with a brush or roller.
Boiled Linseed Oil has drying agents formulated into the product after "cooking" to hasten drying. Raw Linseed Oil takes 10-14 days to dry but has a thicker more durable finish than Boiled Linseed Oil does because it has been thinned with other chemicals and products.
A wood Primer is required to coat the wood before the paint is applied. The Primer seals the wood and is better suited to being painted as the wood alone will soak up the paint causing it to dry too quickly and peel.
Yes, but it won't adhere as well as it does on dry wood.
Linseed oil is ideal for use on cleaning stained cabinets. Never use linseed oil on painted cabinets. Cover the floor with a drop cloth and open the doors and windows for ventilation. Wipe the cabinet down wit a soft, dry cloth and vacuum crevices to remove all particles. Mix together equal parts linseed oil and white vinegar. Wet a soft cloth in the solution and clean the cabinets, going with the direction of the wood. Use an old toothbrush to get in corners and crevices. After cleaning, allow to completely air dry and then buff with a soft, dry cloth to restore shine. There is no need to rinse after washing.
You can remove dry fingernail polish from a wood laminate floor by first using fingernail polish remover or acetone to cut the polish. Then, use your fingernail to scrape the remaining polish from the floor.
By the time you asked this question, you must have already had too much oil on the wood. Wipe as much of it off as you can. Use a squeegee if there's still that much. Then rub it. Rub it some more. Rub it again, harder. With dry, soft, cotton cloths. Rubbing heats the oil and helps it penetrate, and the dry cloth removes any excess oil. Oil finishes do not really dry. They're not like paint. They soak into the wood, rather than forming a layer on top of it. If it did dry on top of the wood, you wouldn't like the result. It would stay sticky and gummy, and might even grow mildew.
You should never steam clean a bamboo floor because it will cause damage to the floor. You should also never use oil soaps or abrasive cleaners. Select a product that is made for cleaning wood floors and apply it with a microfiber mop, then quickly wipe it dry with a soft cloth.
Apply mild heat, When I want to rush drying I use a cardboard box to set my piece in and set a ceramic heater to blow "WARM" air into the box, it keeps the air circulating and speeds up the drying time. (CAUTION) use warm air don't get into to big of a rush.
It all depends, I suppose, on your usage. The 100% safest way is just to buy it at the store... never try to make it yourself by boiling raw linseed oil as you'll no doubt wind up with a pretty good fire on your hands. Today's "Boiled Linseed oil" is mixed with chemical agenyts that cause it to dry more quickly than raw linseed oil. Heating raw linseed oil (under laboratory conditions!) causes it to polymerize and oxidize, making it thicker and shortening its drying time. Again, kids, don't try this at home!
It all depends, I suppose, on your usage. The 100% safest way is just to buy it at the store... never try to make it yourself by boiling raw linseed oil as you'll no doubt wind up with a pretty good fire on your hands. Today's "Boiled Linseed oil" is mixed with chemical agenyts that cause it to dry more quickly than raw linseed oil. Heating raw linseed oil (under laboratory conditions!) causes it to polymerize and oxidize, making it thicker and shortening its drying time. Again, kids, don't try this at home!
It is important to keep hardwood floors clean and sweep up anything which can scratch it quickly, so a good quality mop is essential. It is also necessary to dry any water spills, so that the wood does not warp.
The stain or paint is rubbed into the pores of the wood and then let dry completely. "Rubbed in" not painted on with a brush or roller.
well you could try to scratch it off after its dry, but a floor cleaner should do it.
Because heat is a big factor in starting and keeping a fire. You have air, and fuel, and the heat is already factored in. The wood that is already there burning helps too because the fact that it is burning means that most of the wood is dry, and dry wood burns much faster than wet or damp wood. Plus, the dry burning wood dries out any new wood that is placed on top of it, making all of the wood dry, which is the same as stacking tinder, as it is already ready to be set ablaze.