Apply mild heat, When I want to rush drying I use a cardboard box to set my piece in and set a ceramic heater to blow "WARM" air into the box, it keeps the air circulating and speeds up the drying time. (CAUTION) use warm air don't get into to big of a rush.
It can be, but the Linseed oil will inhibit it's ability to soak into the wood. If I had to do this, I would insert a 'biscuit' or a dowel for added strength.
By the time you asked this question, you must have already had too much oil on the wood. Wipe as much of it off as you can. Use a squeegee if there's still that much. Then rub it. Rub it some more. Rub it again, harder. With dry, soft, cotton cloths. Rubbing heats the oil and helps it penetrate, and the dry cloth removes any excess oil. Oil finishes do not really dry. They're not like paint. They soak into the wood, rather than forming a layer on top of it. If it did dry on top of the wood, you wouldn't like the result. It would stay sticky and gummy, and might even grow mildew.
Linseed oil is old tech. I would not use it unless it was a very specialized application where you were going for a particular oiled look, or if the wood were something like teak (where u would use teak oil only). Use a readily available deck sealer.
Boiled Linseed Oil has drying agents formulated into the product after "cooking" to hasten drying. Raw Linseed Oil takes 10-14 days to dry but has a thicker more durable finish than Boiled Linseed Oil does because it has been thinned with other chemicals and products.
It all depends, I suppose, on your usage. The 100% safest way is just to buy it at the store... never try to make it yourself by boiling raw linseed oil as you'll no doubt wind up with a pretty good fire on your hands. Today's "Boiled Linseed oil" is mixed with chemical agenyts that cause it to dry more quickly than raw linseed oil. Heating raw linseed oil (under laboratory conditions!) causes it to polymerize and oxidize, making it thicker and shortening its drying time. Again, kids, don't try this at home!
Yes, but it won't adhere as well as it does on dry wood.
Linseed oil is a product of the flax plant. Linseed oil has both medicinal and household uses Woodworkers use linseed oil to preserve and protect finished wood products. It can even be used to treat wood floors.
It can be, but the Linseed oil will inhibit it's ability to soak into the wood. If I had to do this, I would insert a 'biscuit' or a dowel for added strength.
By the time you asked this question, you must have already had too much oil on the wood. Wipe as much of it off as you can. Use a squeegee if there's still that much. Then rub it. Rub it some more. Rub it again, harder. With dry, soft, cotton cloths. Rubbing heats the oil and helps it penetrate, and the dry cloth removes any excess oil. Oil finishes do not really dry. They're not like paint. They soak into the wood, rather than forming a layer on top of it. If it did dry on top of the wood, you wouldn't like the result. It would stay sticky and gummy, and might even grow mildew.
Boiled linseed oil is used as a preservative for concrete and wood. It is also used as an ingredient in paints, varnishes, and stains.
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No, most cooking oil are not suitable for using with paint, as they tend to remain fluid and do not dry quickly into a hard surface. Linseed oil (in its edible form known as flax seed oil) is commonly used, but the grade of linseed oil is not pure enough and often made using chemicals harmful to humans.
Linseed oil is old tech. I would not use it unless it was a very specialized application where you were going for a particular oiled look, or if the wood were something like teak (where u would use teak oil only). Use a readily available deck sealer.
No, use heated mineral oil or linseed oil, or a polyurethane sealer.
It all depends, I suppose, on your usage. The 100% safest way is just to buy it at the store... never try to make it yourself by boiling raw linseed oil as you'll no doubt wind up with a pretty good fire on your hands. Today's "Boiled Linseed oil" is mixed with chemical agenyts that cause it to dry more quickly than raw linseed oil. Heating raw linseed oil (under laboratory conditions!) causes it to polymerize and oxidize, making it thicker and shortening its drying time. Again, kids, don't try this at home!
Boiled Linseed Oil has drying agents formulated into the product after "cooking" to hasten drying. Raw Linseed Oil takes 10-14 days to dry but has a thicker more durable finish than Boiled Linseed Oil does because it has been thinned with other chemicals and products.
Linseed oil is ideal for use on cleaning stained cabinets. Never use linseed oil on painted cabinets. Cover the floor with a drop cloth and open the doors and windows for ventilation. Wipe the cabinet down wit a soft, dry cloth and vacuum crevices to remove all particles. Mix together equal parts linseed oil and white vinegar. Wet a soft cloth in the solution and clean the cabinets, going with the direction of the wood. Use an old toothbrush to get in corners and crevices. After cleaning, allow to completely air dry and then buff with a soft, dry cloth to restore shine. There is no need to rinse after washing.