Ouch, tough mistake. What you should have used was those high tech deck screws. If you ever need to replace a board it is a lot easier. The nails you used were not stainless steel and what that means is that they will stain. They will last a long time but will continue to rust. At this point my advice is to seal the whole deck with a water seal and try to prevent rust. I have done things like that and it is one of those things. Luckily, I learn from most of my mistakes. To fix it you have to disassemble the deck, remove the nails, put in the screws. You have to decide if you can put up with the rust. Good luck VBD If the pressure treated lumber you used was treated with an "ACQ" formulation, or a "CBA-A" or "CA-B" formulation, your nails will not last long at all. The new wood treatment formulations introduced in the past couple of years to replace the "CCA" treatment (which contained chromated copper and arsenic), are heavy to copper, which is corrosive to many dissimilar metals. Your deck needs to be fastened with stainless steels screws or ring shank nails (very expensive), copper nails (hard to locate and expensive), epoxy coated deck screws, or hot-dipped galvanized nails with a galvanized rating of G-185 (your lumber yard should be able to get them for you if they're not in stock). Personally, I prefer the coated deck screws...they're a little spendy, but your deck planks will stay put. I use a brand called "Trapeze" which were designed for composite deck planks such as "Trex" but work very well with other decking materials.
Yes, you can stain pressure treated wood as long as it has had several months to dry out.
"Untreated" usually refers to wood that has not been treated by chemical preservatives or has not been pressure treated. In other words it means it is in its plain, raw, natural form.
surprisingly pressure treated fencing is more expensive than cedar, depending on style. if it is a picket style fence I would avoid pt because it is adversley affected by wheather and warping and splitting. Cedar will be more uniform, and look better, and if treated after installation it will last just as long.
With a product like Thompson's Water Seal, sure you can - no problem there. The companies that make pressure treated lumber suggest you may stain or waterproof the products using a good quality stain or sealant, providing the wood itself is clean and dry. For additional information on handling pressure treated lumber, including, uses (where and where not to install it), safety and disposal of left-overs, please see the related link below.
Yes, pressure treated wood is made to withstand weather without being coated, so there will be no problem waiting to apply a stain. Once you are ready, be sure to clean the wood, then allow the wood to dry before applying any stain or coating.
It is typical to use pressure treated "2 x 4" for tub support framing.
See your doctor immediately, unless you are already being treated for high blood pressure.
Remove rotted material from the wall and re-frame it using pressure treated lumber or a foam or tar paper membrane between the bottom plate and the concrete.
To properly install patio framing for structural integrity and longevity, follow these steps: Start by preparing a solid, level base for the patio framing. Use pressure-treated lumber for the framing to resist rot and decay. Ensure proper spacing and alignment of the framing members for stability. Use appropriate fasteners, such as galvanized screws or nails, to secure the framing together. Consider adding additional support, such as cross-bracing, for added strength. Regularly inspect and maintain the patio framing to prevent any issues that could compromise its integrity.
cover in oil, paint, grease or plastic. or galvanise it
To ensure proper window framing for your home renovation project, make sure to accurately measure the window opening, use quality materials such as pressure-treated lumber, follow building codes and manufacturer guidelines, and consider hiring a professional if needed.
Pressure treated wood typically takes about 2-3 days to dry after it has been treated.
The best stain for pressure treated wood is a high-quality, oil-based, penetrating stain that is specifically designed for use on pressure treated wood.
Preservatively-treated (pressure-treated) wood does not meet the standard, unless the wood was heat-treated and stamped HT prior to preservative treatment.
To determine if lumber is pressure treated, look for small incisions or punctures on the surface of the wood, which indicate that chemicals have been forced into the wood under pressure. Additionally, pressure-treated lumber is typically labeled with a stamp or tag indicating that it has been treated.
To determine if wood is pressure treated, look for small incisions or punctures on the surface of the wood, which indicate that chemicals have been forced into the wood under pressure. Additionally, pressure-treated wood is often labeled with a stamp or tag indicating that it has been treated.
Wolmanized Wood is a brand of pressure treated wood.