It is not the same thing as asa or iso any type of Photography. Also known as EV (exposure value) or LV (light value), it is a numerical representation of the amount of light reaching the film. Shutter speed and aperture are the main inputs into the mathematical equation used to arrive at the value. Most photographers need not be concerned with EV, but if needed, would rely on an EV table or light meter scale rather than do the math. At F1 and 1 second, the EV is 0. Each halving of the exposure increments the value by +1; each doubling of the exposure by -1. Thus 1 second at F2 is EV 2 (don't forget that this is TWO stops as F1.4 comes between F1 and F2).
Multiple-exposure photography.
Spelled STEREOGRAPHY it is tha same as stereo photography.
A "multiple exposure" means that two or more exposures are made on the same frame of film. There are various reasons why multiple exposures are taken. Generally, people will reduce each exposure by half to arrive at a single exposure's exposure value. Others lay down 1/3 + 1/3, believing that the pre-sensitized film is more receptive to light, thus 1/3 +1/3 = 1. I think they are both right, depending on the scene. Here are a few reasons for multiple exposures, with examples: Individual exposures of different scenes (may be difficult to place elements of successive images) - night shot of cityscape with a moon added later. Same scene with elements added or changed for the second exposure - at night outdoors with electronic flash, insert person on second shot - expose each for half. Person's shadow may be slightly visible in second shot, but they will look "ghostly". Same scene twice, once out of focus, once in focus. I have seen examples of the surrealism one can create, but the degree of being out of focus and portion of the exposure value I cannot remember. Experiment and take notes or Google something. Three stops down exposure of an out of focus 18% neutral gray card, then a minus 1/3 exposure of a high contrast scene. You can make a subtle yet significant reduction in contrast on transparency (slide) film. For example, flowers in the bright sunlight spattered shade of trees. The -1/3 should keep the "sun spots" from blowing out, while the pre-exposure raises shadow detail because the film has been "woken up" as I put it. I've always believed my camera bag is the gray it is for a reason...I have used it for this purpose, substituting it for a gray card. Now for the bad. Multiple exposures occur when you rewind the film, don't rewind all the way into the container, then load it normally at a later date and use it again. If your film camera has a multiple exposure lever to prevent film transport, any of these are relatively easy to manipulate. Otherwise, you have to advance to set the shutter then depress the film transport button on the bottom of the camera and rewind a specified amount. Your camera manual may indicate how much, but it's a real hit-and-miss proposition if accurate registration is needed for the second shot but I have done it.
In digital photography, metadata is the information describing the image and stored with it - either in the same file, or along side it (in a database or in a companion file). Some of this data comes directly from the camera that took the pictures: date, time, exposure, aperture, ISO, camera and lens model, etc. Some is added by the photographer during post-processing: title, location, scene, key words, etc.
In still photography, it involves keeping a subject in the view finder when it is moving diagonally or transversely with respect to the photographers position. The exposure is made while the camera is following and does not stop until the shutter has closed. The effect varies with the speed of the pan (due to the speed of the subject) and the shutter speed used. Slower shutter speeds and fast pans will blur the background extensively while the subject is rendered more sharply. If this is a car, most of it would be sharp if done correctly. However, a running person's torso may be relatively sharp while their legs and arms would not be. With manual focused lenses, it is necessary to pre-focus on the same plane that the subject will be in at the anticipated moment of exposure before the pan begins. In motion picture photography, panning involves moving the camera through a range of distance while the film/video is running (the images are being taken).
Yes, shutter speed and exposure time are the same thing in photography. It refers to the amount of time the camera's shutter is open to allow light to reach the camera sensor or film.
Yes
Multiple-exposure photography.
No, the heat index and real feel temperature are not the same. The heat index takes into account both temperature and humidity to calculate how hot it feels, while the real feel temperature considers factors like wind and sun exposure in addition to temperature.
To achieve a double exposure effect with a disposable camera, take a photo and then cover the lens with your finger before winding the film to the next frame. Take a second photo on the same frame, resulting in a double exposure effect when the film is developed.
To effectively use a gray card in photography for accurate color balance and exposure, follow these steps: Place the gray card in the same lighting conditions as your subject. Set your camera to manual mode and adjust the exposure settings to properly expose the gray card. Take a photo of the gray card, filling the frame with the card. Use the photo of the gray card as a reference to set the white balance and exposure for your other photos in the same lighting conditions. This will help ensure accurate color balance and exposure in your images.
Sepia
This seems to be a question more suitable to a professional. It appears to have to do with the amount of exposure given to a specific section of the film. Different degrees of radiation exposure and using different radiograph machines can affect the film while not changing the density.
To effectively use a grey card in photography for accurate color balance and exposure, follow these steps: Place the grey card in the same lighting conditions as your subject. Set your camera to manual mode and take a photo of the grey card. Use the photo of the grey card to set the white balance and exposure settings for your other photos. Adjust the white balance and exposure settings based on the grey card photo to achieve accurate color balance and exposure in your photos.
the same, index.
To effectively use a gray card in digital photography for accurate color balance and exposure, follow these steps: Place the gray card in the same lighting conditions as your subject. Take a photo of the gray card in the scene you want to capture. Use the photo of the gray card to set the white balance and exposure settings in your camera. This will help ensure that the colors in your final photos are true to life and the exposure is correctly balanced.
As film screen speed increases, radiographic density decreases. Faster film screens require less exposure to produce the same density as slower film screens. This relationship is important in balancing exposure settings to achieve optimal image quality.