There is no electrical terminology that refers to a "no fault switch".
Not knowing what year, make and model you have, I would suspect the heater fan switch and or electrical plug to the switch is at fault.
There must be an electrical fault somewhere. It might be in the in the switch that is actuated by the ignition key, but it might be elsewhere.
A fault throw switch is a protective device used in electrical systems to isolate faulty sections by diverting fault currents away from sensitive equipment. It operates by detecting a fault condition and mechanically switching the circuit to a predetermined safe state, often redirecting the current through a bypass or alternate route. The subsequent effect on the system includes improved reliability and protection for equipment, minimizing downtime and potential damage by quickly isolating problematic areas. This allows the rest of the system to continue operating normally while repairs are made.
The Hayward Fault is a Strike-slip Fault.
The fault that caused the 1995 Kobe earthquake was the Nojima fault.
There is no electrical terminology that refers to a "no fault switch".
To replace the wire ground fault switch, you need to switch off electric power from the source. After switching it off you can use the screwdriver to open screw and remove the faulty switch and replace it with a good one. <<>> There is no such a device as a ground fault switch. There is a ground fault breaker and a ground fault receptacle.
There is no electrical terminology that refers to a "no fault switch".
That indicates a fault and the switch needs replacing.
no fuse the switch is the common fault
A switch onto fault is an electrical fault condition that occurs when a circuit breaker or switch is closed onto a faulted circuit, such as a short circuit. This can lead to a sudden surge of current, potentially causing damage to equipment, overheating, or further faults in the system. Proper protection devices, such as relays, are essential to detect faults and isolate them before a switch can be closed, thereby preventing this dangerous scenario.
First, be sure the high beam bulbs and fuses are good. From there I would suspect the high/low beam switch is bad or out of adjustment. Really need the year, make and model to add further possibilities.
If you are sure the lid safety switch is at fault do not bother with it, they are cheaper and easier to replace
Once the problem has been resolved switch off the ignition, leave it a few seconds, then switch on again and the engine fault light should be off. If it remains on then there is a possibility you may have more than one fault.
It could be the indercator switch i just had the same fault on a Hyundai and it was the indercator switch
2 c pressure switch
check your minitrol switch's