Here is the wiring diagram:
One simple way to do it,on ANY car that has a distributor,is to remove the distribitor from the engine,marking it before you do so that it goes back with rotor & body in EXACTLY the same position.Leave all wiring connected to the distributor except the High Tension(HT) lead & connect a jumper lead from the distributor body to a good ground on the engine.Then go inside the car & turn on the ignition but DO NOT crank the engine.Let the disconnected end of the HT rest on its boot against the car body & holding the distributor in one hand,spin the distributor drive shaft with the other hand.You should see showers of sparks on the end of HT lead as the shaft is spun indicating that the ignition module is OK.....no sparks,module's bad!
A bad ignition module is usually characterized by several frustrating symptoms. A classic example is when the engine will start, but when it gets hot, the ignition module's electrical properties change, cuasing the car to die suddenly, but restart after several minutes of cooling. Some people have reported pouring cold water on the ignition module causes it to start when hot (mearly by cooling rapidly). Another way to test for this is to allow the engine to run for a total of 30 minutes, then gently tap the module with the back of a screwdriver. If the car fails, this is usually the source. Sometimes the car will not start at all, but this should lead to checking the ignition coil first. This is usually characterized by no spark, no combustion, but good power (or weak power) into the ignition coil. This is usually checked first, as both are common problems, but the ignition coil is usually 1/3 the price (or less) of the (often very pricey) modules (especially for later models). Basically, check for spark, if you dont have any, keep going back until you have checked the ignition coil, distibutor, ignitor, module (in that order) and any grounds, resistors, capacitors, etc. Check all for power in, out, positive, negative, and power out. Use a test light, a voltmeter (multimeter) and get a book for your car from the auto parts store. Or take it to AutoZone- they can test modules using a computer for FREE.
The ICM is the grey long plastic piece attached to your distributor. This is where the plug is attached for controlling spark.3.8 liter motor's ICM is remote mounted - on the firewall to avoid the heat issue.AnswerLook at the distributor. There will be a module on the side that is either grey or black, and is about 3 inches long and 1 inch wide. It is held onto the distributor with two 7/32(5.5 mm) screws back inside of two holes on the module. You will have to get a thin wall socket to access them. I use a 1/4 drive deep well Sears Craftsman socket to get them off. NOTE: 7/32nds inch and 5.5MM are the same size, so either will work. 3.0 ICM Overheats(from the "Related Question" below) The 3.0 liter Taurus - Sable engines has a known ICM problem - Ignition Control Module - even a recall was out for this issue - ICM mounts to Distributor base, runs hotter than the motor - the ICM dies early.My issue was stalling after 2 hours freeway driving - would stall after pulling out for break or gas - OBD codes were 111 (KOEO) and after engine restarts (post cool down of 15-20 minutes, hood open) was also 111 (KOER). These are 'nothings wrong' codes. I did notice that there was NO spark when stalled, but fuel pressure was there and injectors clicked while cranking (stethoscope).I added a 2" * 28" 'preheat duct' tube from behind left head light to an inch or so behind the ICM/distributor base. I haven't stalled since I did this. Tube cost, Napa Auto, was less than $10.00. If anyone else tries this and they might be in a traffic congested area, might want to add a 12VDC PC CPU cooling fan - about another $10-12.AnswerThe control module is either fenderwell mounted or it is mounted on the distributor body. Try this ; go to a auto parts store and price one out and look at the part; then you will know what yours looks like. The one on the distributor will require a special wrench.update... the ignition control module on a 1992 mercury sable is located on the distributor. it requires a special 5.5mm ignition module removal tool that you can find online. and don't forget the hi temp grease!!Ahhh... The bolts troubled me for quite some time. As with all of our lovely American cars, they love to make ***special*** tools to remove what should be an easy part to remove. Instead of just attaching the module with simple Phillips screws, the engineers at ford decided to affix it with a 5.5mm bolt. ***however*** since the bolt is recessed about 1/2 inch, there are **no** deep well sockets that will reach it. So... You have to buy a ford "ignition module" tool to access those pesky bolts. I found one online for about 10 bucks. Also, don't buy the module from ford! They want over $215 dollars for it. I got one at checker for about $105.00.Steve phx AZ
An electrical arc, yes.
Your best source is a Toyota dealership. A possible alternative 'might' be an auto recycling yard but removing an ignition harness on a modern car intact could be difficult.
Your local library is a tremendous source of free car repair information. Usually, if they don't have it, they will find it for you at another library in their system and have it for you at YOUR library the next day or two. Your local library is a tremendous source of free car repair information. Usually, if they don't have it, they will find it for you at another library in their system and have it for you at YOUR library the next day or two.
The distributor power source on a 1995 Chevrolet Prizm with a 1.6L engine is typically the ignition switch, which provides power to the distributor when the ignition is turned on. The distributor is responsible for directing the high voltage from the ignition coil to the correct cylinder in the engine. It also contains the ignition timing mechanism, which plays a crucial role in engine performance. If you're troubleshooting, ensure that the wiring and connections to the distributor are intact and that the ignition coil is functioning properly.
The two wires coming from an ACCEL distributor typically connect to the coil. One wire is for the ignition power source, while the other wire is for the tachometer. It's important to consult the manufacturer's instructions or a wiring diagram to ensure proper connection.
One simple way to do it,on ANY car that has a distributor,is to remove the distribitor from the engine,marking it before you do so that it goes back with rotor & body in EXACTLY the same position.Leave all wiring connected to the distributor except the High Tension(HT) lead & connect a jumper lead from the distributor body to a good ground on the engine.Then go inside the car & turn on the ignition but DO NOT crank the engine.Let the disconnected end of the HT rest on its boot against the car body & holding the distributor in one hand,spin the distributor drive shaft with the other hand.You should see showers of sparks on the end of HT lead as the shaft is spun indicating that the ignition module is OK.....no sparks,module's bad!
Yes, when switching from a points distributor to an electronic distributor in a 1979 Ford F-250, you typically need to modify the wiring. This includes removing the points ignition components and potentially adding a power source for the electronic ignition module. Ensure that the wiring harness is compatible with the new distributor, and double-check for any necessary changes to the ignition coil, as electronic distributors often require a different coil than points systems.
To convert the mechanical points and distributor in a 1972 Dodge Power Wagon W200 with a 318 engine to an electronic ignition system, follow these steps: First, remove the old points-style distributor and replace it with an electronic ignition distributor compatible with your engine. Next, install an electronic ignition control module, ensuring it's properly wired to the ignition coil and power source. Finally, adjust the timing as needed and verify that the system operates correctly by checking for a strong spark and smooth engine performance.
From Ignition switch run/start position terminal.
To wire up an electronic distributor for a 4Y Toyota 2.2 motor, first remove the old points distributor and ensure the new electronic distributor is properly installed in the engine. Connect the ignition coil’s positive terminal to the power source, typically the ignition switch, and the negative terminal to the electronic distributor's signal wire. Ground the electronic distributor to the engine block for proper function. Finally, ensure all connections are secure and verify the timing before starting the engine.
To remove and replace the ignition module on a Weed Eater blower FL15000LE, first, ensure the blower is turned off and disconnected from any power source. Remove the screws securing the ignition module, usually located near the engine, and carefully detach the wiring harness from the module. Install the new ignition module by connecting the wiring harness and securing it with screws, ensuring proper alignment. Finally, reassemble any parts you may have removed and check for proper operation before use.
The coil generates the high voltage charge which is then distributed to the spark plugs by the rotor arm in the distributor cap.
No a venn diagram is not a graphic source.
You'd need a constant source such as manifold or throttle body vacuum for power brakes, pcv, and disappearing headlights, and a spark-ported source such as one you'd find above the throttle body for the distributor.