Check the battery, it might be low. A low battery can be caused by either an old, worn out battery or by a faulty alternator. If the alternator isn't putting electrical energy into the battery, the battery won't get charged. After all, a battery is only an electrical STORAGE device.
If your battery is fine, you might have a weak starter. You should also check your ignition switch. Try disconnecting it, and then touching the female end to the battery. This grounds out the circuit, should start your car for you, and tells you your battery and starter are perfectly fine.
We purchased a 2001 Grand Prix 3.1 70000 miles. Dealership replaced lower intake gaskets due to slight seeping upon purchase. Did not appear to be a concern.. Shortly there after there is a ticking sound (like a sewing machine) coming from the engine. Loudest during idle and when engines cold. Much quieter and occasional when driving. Added sea foam to the oil, and did an oil change...no change. No fluid leaks, runs great. Local shop listened to it, and instantly said the engine was shot. Having a heard time grasping this. We decided to check the spark plugs. Ticking stopped when we unpulled the spark plug on cylinder 4, started again when replugged. Could it be anything other then a shot engine...like it said it runs perfect. Any ideas??
It sounds like the battery only has enough of a charge to run the ignition and the alternator is not contributing anything so as soon as you put additional load on it, the engine dies from lack of power for the ignition coil. If you have a volt meter, check the battery voltage BEFORE you start the engine. If it'needs a jump-start again do so and start the engine. Then remove the jumper cables and test the voltage level in the battery with the engine RPM at around 1000. With the engine running it should be somewhere near 13.5 Volts. If it's anything less than 12 V, you have a problem with the alternator.
you burn out your starter or your fly wheedl
Neutral safety switch ANSWER 2 Try hitting your steering wheel hard to the right :) Smack it really hard and try taking your key out again. There is a safety thing in there which sometimes needs a good smack.
To test for security problem, turn the ignition to the on position, and look in the dash for the security light to go off after a few seconds. If it does not go off, you can try to reset it. Sometimes this can be done by leaving the ignition in the on position for about 45mins to an hour. Do not turn the ignition off. Instead, turn the key like you are trying to start it. If it starts, you have a problem with the built in security program on the computer. Sometimes it will not happen again, other times it may leave you stranded. If it is a security problem, the best thing to do is replace the computer, or have a dealership do so. No spark No fuel what could be the cause does it have a security system for the fuel No compression
The 1990 Chevy Celebrity engine is distributorless, the ignition is handled by a combination of the engine control module(computer) and the ignition control module. You did not mention which engine the car has. If your car has the 4 cylinder engine the ignition control module is below the intake manifold at the rear of the engine. You can follow the spark plug wires to it. The coils are mounted to the ignition control module. If your car has the V6 the ignition control module is near the starter and again you can follow the spark plug wires to it. Again the coils are mounted to the ignition control module.
IT COULD BE THE IGNITION MODULE,ON SOME CARS ITS TOO CLOSE TO THE HEAT OF THE ENGINE AND CUTS OUT AFTER THE ENGINE GETS UP TO TEMPERATURE. ONCE THE ENGINE COOLS DOWN THE CAR WILL START AGAIN. PS; NEXT TIME YOU REQUEST INFO, GIVE THE MAKE,MODEL,YEAR, GOOD LUCK PAUL G
We purchased a 2001 Grand Prix 3.1 70000 miles. Dealership replaced lower intake gaskets due to slight seeping upon purchase. Did not appear to be a concern.. Shortly there after there is a ticking sound (like a sewing machine) coming from the engine. Loudest during idle and when engines cold. Much quieter and occasional when driving. Added sea foam to the oil, and did an oil change...no change. No fluid leaks, runs great. Local shop listened to it, and instantly said the engine was shot. Having a heard time grasping this. We decided to check the spark plugs. Ticking stopped when we unpulled the spark plug on cylinder 4, started again when replugged. Could it be anything other then a shot engine...like it said it runs perfect. Any ideas??
Need to know what year and engine size and model to answer right.Please ask your question again with that infomation. THANK YOU> NEUTZ
If your ignition will not turn, try turning the steering wheel slightly while you turn the key. Sometimes the steering wheel will get locked in place and doing this will allow the ignition to move again.
on a 99 TahoeUnlock the Tahoe driver's door and insert the key into the car's ignition.2 Turn the key to the "Run" position. This is the position where the ignition is on, but the engine is not. Wait five seconds for the security light to go off, then crank the engine. If the engine does not crank, continue to step 3.3 Leave the ignition key in the "Run" position for 90 seconds, or until the security light stops flashing again. Retry cranking the engine.4 Remove the key, exit the car and lock the doors if the engine doesn't start. Unlock the car again and repeat step 3 again. If the Passlock still won't reset and you can't start your car's engine, you may have a faulty or non-programmed car key. In that case, you must contact the Chevrolet dealership and get them to reprogram or replace the key
On most vehicles, after the problem is taken care of, the check engine light resets automatically after the ignition is turned off and then the engine is started again. If you have fixed one problem, a second problem probably exists.
To reset "change oil" light: 1: Turn ignition key to 'run' (one position before starting engine) 2: Fully depress accelerator pedal 3 times slowly, within 10 seconds. 3: Turn ignition key to 'off' then start engine and check to verify the light has been reset. If it hasn't try again, sometimes the 3 depressions of the pedal don't register correctly.
I think your problem is either in high voltage cables or in the ignition coils. Since you have two ignition coils for 4 cylinders and missfire in one, the problem is in the cables.
Check the ignition coil. At cold coils generally operate properly, when the coil heats a failing unit will start to break down and fail causing misfiring and poor engine operation. Second check for a failing ignition controller in the distributor.
Ignition is most likely culprit, plugs, wires, cap, etc - engines that run smooth at idle but break down under load again are usually ignition related. Year / model / engine would help determine where to start... I'd be looking into ignition issues.
Short communication line to ground (with ignition off) and try to start the engine. It should be impossible because PCM is not getting the VTSS message from the BCM. Remove short from line and turn ignition on. With ignition on short communication line again. Done.