no. it happens all the time. you just reset the timing, install a new belt and youre done.
did you hone the cylinder before you replaced the parts
Last time I replaced a master cylinder I got a kit with it. before you hook up the brake lines you screw in 2 zerts connect plastic tubing to them and run them into the fluid reseviors then pump the brakes until no bubbles come through the plastic lines
There is 1 coil per cylinder, if you have the fault codes read, it will tell you which one to replace. To check, swap the coil with the cylinder next to it, if the fault follows the coil. The coil is bad. If it stays with the cylinder, check/swap spark plugs, injectors, until the fault moves. It is cheaper swapping to find which part is bad before buying/throwing parts at it.
battery needs replacing, make sure you replace it with a battery of correct cranking amps
There are two things to consider here. First, where is the camshaft located in your engine, and second, is it an interference setup. If you don't know what either of these things mean you should take the car in and have it repaired. Nothing personal, but it takes years of training and experience to be any good at this. Every stock in-block cam engine I've ever worked has not been interference, which means there's no valve damage if the chain or belt breaks. So you can simply follow the repair procedure and replace the timing components. On an overhead valve engine that is not interference, again the timing belt or chain can be replaced - there shouldn't be any other damage. Now the fun part. If it is an interference engine and the engine was running when the belt or chain failed, it will likely need a few valves if not a cylinder head. You can determine if there was damage by a visual inspection or by performing a leakdown test on each cylinder with the camshaft bearing caps loosened and the valves closed. Obviously any damaged parts have to be replaced. If there was damage to any valves it is also important to measure the piston to deck height on each cylinder. It is possible to bend a connecting rod when the piston contacts a valve, especially if the valve head broke off and jammed in the cylinder (this also usually makes a nice crater in the piston). I've seen cylinder heads replaced where the tech neglected to take this measurement. It was only a matter of a couple hundred miles before the damaged connecting rod let go and caused catastrophic engine damage.
Before it breaks
10 degrees before TDC
If the carpet was damaged from a listed peril (smoke, fire, etc.), the average policy will pay (after your deductable) to have it cleaned or replaced, depending on the damage.
I just replaced mine, came to $1080 before taxes.
I can't believe the people that don't state make, model, year and engine size before posting a question.
It has two of them. One is before catalytic converter and second one is after.
did you hone the cylinder before you replaced the parts
my service manual says 10 degrees before tdc on auto models with ac off idle @750
If any one of your wheel bearings are damaged or wearing then they should be repaired or replaced before anything bad happens.
The master cylinder MUST be bleed first before any bleeding at the wheels can occur. if you do not do this, you will be bleeding for hours.
The 1994 Buick Century 4 cylinder head gasket will have to be removed and replaced. The head has to be removed, along with anything that is physically in the way of removal, before the head gasket can be removed.
No but if there is still an EGR valve problem then its the EGR Valve switch located at the back of the motor. I replaced my EGR valve 2 times before I figured out it was the electrical switch, which had burnt up, for the egr valve. I havent had a problem with the EGR since then..