== == The first and easiest thing to check is the wire harness that connects your main 12V DC power to your fuse panel under the dash.
1.Open the hood. Follow the positive lead of the battery to a bolt post on the firewall behind the battery. (it may be partially blocked by large groupings of wires) It should have a red plastic cap covering it. (about the size of a quarter) This is a junction point for all of your power circuits. Below the red cap is a wire harness with 4 wires coming out of it. Two of these wires go through the firewall to the fuse panel. 2. Once you have located these wires, put your key in the ignition, turn it to start and turn your headlight switch to the on position. Go back under the hood, grab hold of the four wires and start to wiggle them around to see if your headlights come on. If you manage to get the headlights to come on, so will your radio, instrument cluster and your van will start. (the ignition coil is on the same circuit as the radio, headlights, etc.) Now you know that you have a loose connection through the firewall and most likely a loose connection into the back of your fuse panel or at the junction point. If this doesn't help, see the next paragraphs.
These are normal symptoms of a bad �Fusible Link� from the battery. Connected to the battery on the positive side are several wires OR they are connected to the starter � these wires have small colored �bulbs� (normally black, red, yellow, white, rust) with a number on the outside. These are fuses and you need to test them for voltage using a sewing needle. Push the needle into the wire and test for 12 volts on both sides of the �bulb.� A bad Ignition switch can also cause this. If the connections that are not live are un-switched (IE: Always on; interior lights, radio power 2, power door locks, ECM 2 headlights, brake lights, parking lights) then this is not the problem. If they are switched (IE: Power windows, radio power 1, and other things that only work with the key on) then you need to check the ignition switch to make sure it is putting out power on all the correct wires (you need a wiring diagram for this) Less normal is a bad connection in the fuse box, that takes a great deal more testing than can be described here. (try the first 2 paragraphs before you look for anything else)
A couple of things to troubleshoot here first: 1. Do the car's lights work? Not the interior light, the headlights. If the headlights don't work or they go completely dim when you turn the key, your battery is dead.
A good possibility would be a dead battery.
The most common cause for a Mercedes-Benz not to start is a dead battery. Try charging the battery to see the automobile will start.
Dead battery and/or alternator.
You need a new battery.
Sounds like the battery went dead or you have loose/dirty battery connections.
Check your battery, it can be weak or dead. If the battery seems fine, your alternator may be weak or needs replaced.
Process of elimination.
Get a new Battery? or a boost?? if it's standard i guess you could always push start it
turn the key? no start? check the battery connections. clean them make sure they are tight turn the key no start? turn on the headlights if you have bright headlights, the starter may be the issue. if you have no headlights, look at charging the battery after battery charge turn the key tries to start or clicks probably a dead battery if the car turns over and just won't start do you have gas? If the car turns over and tries to start that means the battery and starter are good now you need to find out why you are not either getting spark of fuel.
Did you check the lights? They could be dead!
Sounds like you have a loose ground somewhere.
dead aged face
dead aged face
my pito was watching them
A couple of things to troubleshoot here first: 1. Do the car's lights work? Not the interior light, the headlights. If the headlights don't work or they go completely dim when you turn the key, your battery is dead.
dead aged face.