How do you change impeller on tohatsu 3.5?

Answer 1

Depends on HP and year. Older ones you normally had to pull the power head (engine) and disconnect the gear shift before pulling the lower unit. Look for a service manual on eBay for your year and model to be sure.

Answer 2

You must get the splined impeller tool on eBay or at a Yamaha dealership (< $10)and a large adjustable wrench...very large; capable of putting some torque on the impeller itself. First, Remove the trim, steering (10mm wrench), and reverse linkages. Next you must remove the nozzle and reverse gate on the back of the pump housing (Four 14mm bolts) . Pull/wiggle it out. You are now looking at the 7? or 8? vanes next, wiggle that part out..it may take some pulling and wiggling, but be sure to pull it out straight. You can use some penetrating oil then wiggle it some until it comes loose. That part with the cone piece and vanes will be connected to the drive shaft and impeller. The whole unit should slide right out of the wear ring. (this is a great time to re-sleeve your wear ring or replace it if it's worn from pumping rocks or sand) Next, put the splined impeller tool on the splines of the drive shaft..get a long wrench around it... Put the other large adjustable wrench around the hexagonal part of the impeller and twist in opposite directions. Best if you've got a buddy helping you.. Be sure not to bend or ding the blades. There you have it! You may notice that the blades have some burn or something that looks like sandblasting on them from the back side only. This is from cavitation and there's really nothing you can do about it unfortunatley besides replace the prop.

Plastic water impeller can wear out fast and easily be damaged. In extreme cases they've been known to even melt. Any of these problems will result in improper or insufficient cooling of your motor, which we all know can result in engine failure. Aluminum water impellers are stronger, more durable, and can vastly improve coolant flow for the hot-headed Banshee, while also giving you piece of mind. The installation is fairly simple and should only be about a 30-minute job. For step by step on changing it, go to the URL shown below.

Answer 3

Tools - 10mm socket and wrench. Needle nose pliers.

1. Put motor on horizontal surface, throttle controls facing up. Put blocks under shaft just above lower unit to suspend lower unit. Put motor in neutral.

2. Remove rubber access cover for shift lever. Loosen 10mm nut that connects shifter shaft to lower unit, but do not remove the nut.

3. Remove two bolts on lower unit (10mm), plus nut near the anode (10mm).

4. Slide lower unit away from motor shaft.

5. Put lower unit (now detached) in vertical position. Remove (4) 10mm bolts that hold impeller housing to lower unit.

6. Slide housing cover up and off the drive shaft slowly, looking for small (~1/2" long) steel pin that sits between the impeller hole and a flat spot in the drive shaft. This drives the impeller from the drive shaft.

7. Turn the housing cover over and mark the position of the small indentation in the impeller hole (which receives the drive pin) on the outside of the impeller housing, so the new impeller can be placed in the same position relative to the drive shaft. Also mark which direction the impeller blades are bent inside the housing.

8. Remove the impeller and clean out the impeller housing. The housing may have impeller material baked on to the metal. This has to be carefully scraped away with a screw driver and/or very fine sandpaper.

9. Put the new impeller into the housing, with the blades bent in the correct direction, and the drive pin receiver location in the same position as the old impeller. Needle nose pliers help for this install.

10. Put a small dab of grease on the flat spot of the drive shaft and put the drive pin in the grease dab to hold it in place.

11. Slide the impeller housing back on the drive shaft. As the housing nears the lower unit, make sure the drive pin slides into the drive pin receiver indentation on the impeller.

12. Secure the impeller housing to the lower unit with the four bolts.

13. Slide the lower unit back into the motor.

    - The drive shaft engages it's hole first.

    - The bolt that extends into the lower unit engages second.

    - The brass water line engages the impeller housing third. This is hard to see and easy to miss.

    - The shift rod engages last. Needle nose pliers are helpful to grab the shaft linkage in the access hold and guide to the shaft coming from the lower unit. Lower unit must be about 1/4" from fully engaged. After shift rod is engaged in the linkage, lower unit can be mated the final 1/4" to the motor.

14. Re-tighten the shaft linkage bolt. Re-install the two lower unit bolts and nut.

15. Run and make sure water streams from the pee-hole tube

Answer 4

remove the starter to get access to the forward/reverse linkage take out the screw for that and disconnect linkage next remove the four bolts on lower unit everything slides out water pump is right there on top

Answer 5

The best way is to visit a mechanic. They have all the tools necessary to do this job right.

Answer 6

Take the cap off, there is a nut with a cotter pin in it. Remove the pin and unscrew the nut.